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typically hydronic systems like that need to be bled, start with the highest radiator, the bleed valve have a little square head and you need to have a key that fits them, most supply HVAC houses have them sitting on the counter but you can ask them for one.
It depends upon configuration- or how it was installed.
In general terms, wherever the air from the structure is being drawn into the cabinet for air recirculation/intake- the filter will be in the vicinity of the ducting connecting to the Ruud heat pump/AC.. It will be before the "A coil" assembly (the copper tubbing with fins roughly the shape of an "A".
This assumes it was installed correctly. If not, the A Coil will collect a thick layer of dust on the side facing the incoming air flow.
The relevent Ruud documentation is here: http://www.ruudac.org.ua/ubhc02.pdf
If there is any doubt about the integrity of the installation, contact an HVAC contractor familiar with your area to inspect and make corrections if needed.
sounds like the outdoor fan motor and/or capacitor needs replaced. The compressor will run for a short time because the fan is not pulling the heat out of the system, it can cause damage to the compressor if the fan is not repaired, Ruud used a 3uf capacitor rating for the outdoor fan motor, if the motor has been changed make sure the proper capacitor is also changed for the new motor rating.
Tried this on my unit today, and observed the same results, but got Aux Heat (with A setting), if the H (blue wire) connected to B terminal, as per instructions for my 6036 Ritetemp. However, in this case, when the set temp is reached, I hear the click, but HVAC still blows aux heat indefinitely.
I also have RUUD UBEA 17J10..., and replaced my old honeywell with 6036, and can't get heat pump working. Both of my units are 14 years old, so I'm thinking to replace them soon.