Welder pulsates - Hobart Handler 125 Ez

Hi.
Depending on the make and model, it may differ a bit from my inverter welder, but looking at mine:
Positive "Torch" cable-socket is red, and
Earth "Workpiece" cable-socket is black.
Otherwise, the way I tested mine (to find out voltage output):
Use a multimeter (analogue or DMM) set to the highest DC voltage scale, or auto-ranging scale.
Turn welder to minimum power setting (lightest rod setting).
While welder is switched on, gradually reduce the meter's DC range until you get a reading (mine read 48V).
The red test-probe to positive socket gives a positive value
[nn.nn V], or deflects meter pointer right, while reversed polarity gives a negative value [-nn.nn V], or deflects meter pointer left.
As the voltage waveform is actually pulsating DC, the AC scale will also give a reading, obviously without polarity indication.

There should be a plastic cap that can be removed to allow access to the pulsator retaining screw. When removed, the pulsator will lift out, The area and bottom of pulsator should be cleaned with a plastic bristled brush and hot white vinegar. A sanitation cycle should be run after reassembly.

The number and location of connection points on a Miller welder when removing the welder and motor from its casing will depend on the specific model and year of the machine you have.
Here are a few things you can try:

1. Check the manual of the welder, it should have a wiring diagram that shows the number and location of connection points on the welder.
2. If you don't have the manual, you can find wiring diagrams for most Miller welders on the Miller website, you can download it from there.
3. If you are not able to find the wiring diagram for your specific welder model, it may be necessary to contact Miller Electric and request a copy.
4. If you are not familiar with reading wiring diagrams or if you are not comfortable working with electrical equipment, it is best to take your welder to a qualified Miller Electric welder repair service center, they will be able to provide you with the necessary information and help you troubleshoot the issue.

Please note that some models may have different ways of wiring, it's important to refer to the manual or consult with the manufacturer for further information.

What is the model number of the unit?

Check to make sure wire feed brake is not set too tight and that all cables and gun are clean. Also check wire feed wheels are clean and in good shape

Try the steps below:

- try running it without any load to see if it still hums.
- if it does, see anything underneath the pulsating disk if there's anything stuck. (like a coin or a pin)
- if it doesn't, You can also try removing the belt between the motor and the pulsator to isolate if it's a defect in the motor or the pulsator.
After that, If the motor is defective, then you'd have to replace that or repair it if you know how to. If the pulsator is defective, check again if there's something stuck in the bushings. If you've used the washing machine for quite a long time, you may need to replace the bushings and bearings of the pulsator. You can also buy an assembly unit for the pulsator if there's one available in your area.

Hope this helps.

At injector's, need to check if you have ground pulsation, to check, connect test light on pos (+) battery terminal, now your set to check ground, at injector harness, probe wire's, while some one cranks engine, look for pulsation, if you don't have pulsation, it will need a computer, injector pulsation is control by the computer, if no pulsation, then no fuel can get into cylinder.

Hi just read your posting.As I understand from your posting, the center spline on your pulsator is stripped and you would like to replace only the center spline instead of the whole pulsator.Is this correct?Are you in Australia?If so then reply back and I can give you some contact details on where to obtain a pulsator from.I dont think you can buy just the center piece only the whole pusator.There are places that sell the pulsators secondhand which will save you some money.Please reply with additional information and I am sure I can help you further.Looking forward to your reply.

Most welders hum when turned on. The pulsation could be the unsteady feed. The feed could be one of several things. The rollers that drive the wire could be adjusted too loose. The tip could be damaged/burnt/melted. The tube that the wire feeds through inside the lead could be damaged or kinked. Be careful when welding that you don't have the lead bent too much -- keep it as straight as possible. This will minimize problems due to kinking. When you say it doesn't work at all, if you mean doesn't feed, this could be the same problem. If it doesn't turn on at all, that's something else. Post more details and we'll see what we can do.

I would try sanding down any areas that show signs of pitting and arcing. If the pitting is severe you will need to repair or replace those parts. If it is minor, just sand out what you can. It does not have to be perfect. Once you have your various contact points back to shiny metal reassemble and tighten everything.

If the liner hasn't been replaced since you've had the machine it wouldn't hurt to replace it also. Perform the above steps first though.