Our Blanco Cleo 6100 Cruciform Monobloc tap is dripping & I think it has a ceramic disc valve as opposed to the more common tap washer. Is it possible to replace the ceramic valve & if so how? Linda Webster

F1: 25A 125V 3AG FAST CERAMIC FUSE
https://www.schematicsunlimited.com/q/qsc/qsc-cx502-amplifier-schematic

Unfortunately I couldn't locate that precise model, but found another Blanco:


https://www.winningappliances.com.au/public/manuals/Blanco-BM32CX-32L-Convection-Built-In-Microwave-Oven-1000W-User-Manual.pdf

You will have to turn off your water mains and strip your mixer tap. It is possible that the seal (if it is an older tap with a rubber seal) has become stuck or the threaded part that turns it has gone faulty. If it is a modern tap with ceramic seals, check the operation of the mechanism and see why the ceramic seal is not being opened.

You don't say anything about what kind of faucet you have, so this may not apply. But if yours is the kind with handles you turn to control the water, you probably have worn-out compression washers. In this kind of faucet, water is shut off by pressing a rubber washer on the end of a threaded stem against an opening in the faucet body. When you turn the handle, you move the washer away from its seat and the water can flow. Over time the washer gets worn and no longer seals off the water. Also, the valve seat the washer presses against can wear and allow water to sneak past the seal. The result is that annoying drip or a steady trickle.

This site, among many others, shows how to change a washer and fix most drippy faucets. If you search for "repair a leaky faucet" you'll find lots of sites to pick from, including many with videos. If you faucet is not a compression type, a single-lever cartridge for instance, there are links to other repair procedures.

If your faucet is old and the parts very badly corroded and worn, you might want to fix the leak by replacing the entire stem as a unit. You can find replacement stems for most brands of faucet at big-box home improvement stores and at many hardware store. It's a little more expensive, but often much easier to unscrew the old one and pop in the new than to start trying to get the old washer off the stem.

A last tip: Whenever you do any work on a faucet, remove the aerator from the spout and run the water to help clear the line. If you just turn the water back on and run the faucet, debris that was kicked up during the repair can clog the aerator screen. Then you're left wondering why you get only a weak trickle or no water at all after you fixed the trouble.

The suggestions above are rubbish. The problem is common with the Futura, because the spout is moved usually through 180 degrees. The kit consists of a plastic barrier washer, and o ring. Sometimes with the replacement grub screw. Tapmate was Berglen and Berglen was swallowed up by Damixa which in turn was taken by Bristan who have some spares but I don't know if they have this. Otherwise there is an overseas website for Damixa

I would contact them from this website http://www.blancoamerica.com/index.html?p=CONTACT_US and request a special order direct from the wear house. You could possibly get it for free depending how long you have owned it.

There is no washer in that tap it is a ceramic insert which you will have to order from manufacturer or elsewhere.
Turn off the water supply, unscrew tap actuator (knob) (remove screw and pull), there will be a large nut to undo....undo it and withdraw the insert. Cleaning it thoroughly may help. it's worth a try as there only has to be a small impediment on the ceramic and it will leak.

A picture is worth a thousand words, I believe this may be your tap
http://www.abodedesigns.co.uk/downloads/ATLAS%20MONO%20PARTS.pdf
hope that is helpful.

Isolate hot and cold suplies in turn and to identify which valve is letting by. Ring Atriflo (Perrin & Rowe) on 01708 526361 (Mon-Fri) to order the correct valve. For the Oberon the parts are Hot: 9.13145; Cold: 9.13146, but check with them first - they are very helpful and on the ball.To access the valve remove the handle (unscrew manually); remove the handle coupler (size 14 hex. bit) and gently unscrew the chrome bell-shaped valve shroud. (A mole wrench gently applied, with suitable padding to avoid dinking the chrome, does it nicely.) All will then be revealed.

Contact the manufacturers web site to obtain a list of sellers in your area.
Hope that helps.

Hi,
No the handles will sieze on there with time... the minerl deposits from the water will weld them right fast...

Tap it with a light hammer and work it to get it to loosen...but I have broke many tring to get them loose...

heatman101