No ignition light stays on...replaced thermostat(flame box)swapped heat probe with a known good one..door switch ok...bought 6 of these year before last...out of warranty now...cant seem to find a detailed trouble shooting guide anywhere...any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

· Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
· The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.
· Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
· Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system.

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

IF THE GRIL IS WORKING YET U SAY NO HEAT? THEN HOW IS IT WORKING? OR DO U MEAN NO HEAT IN OVEN? IF SO
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD A clicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.


: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
Problem -
Gas flame comes on first few times then quits and igniter keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go.
Answer ( most common ) -
Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.

Problem -
No flame, no igniter glowing at all,
Answer ( most common ) -
Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter when dryer should be calling for heat.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Gas does not ignite. No spark. No Ignition light is not ON.
1. Shorted electrode on igniter/flame sense.
2. Igniter cable (high voltage) OPEN.
3. Heat relay malfunction.
4. Centrifugal switch in blower motor inoperative.
5. Transformer inoperative.
6. High limit thermostat open.
7. Interconnecting wiring malfunction.
8. Ignition module malfunction.

Sparks but gas does not ignite.

1. Gas solenoid valve off or inoperative.
2. Manual gas valve closed.
3. Gas supply OFF or insufficient gas pressure.
4. Inerconnecting wiring malfunction.
5. Igniton module malfunction.

you could have a bad ignitor check that it is actually igniting the gas and you can see flame, also check the cavity sensor a probe that sticks into the oven at the top usually on the left top corner but if the bake cycle works with good results them it is ok
check for flame when it starts give it a mibute to ignite, if it does not then you need to replace the broil ignitor.

Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

replace the bake ignitor its getting weak

HI thanks for your question. the part that's at fault, is the igniter. it glows but not hot enough to ignite all the gas. replace the igniter. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks.

if you remove the 2 screws on the right and left bottom plate and open the door and youll see 2 screws that panel will come off turn the oven on and you should see 2 burners on both sides and they should ignite.if they do and go right out you could have 2 problems.when the burners light they hit a probe called a flame sense.this probe plugs into a heat board and if the board doesnt sense the flame you will get a red no ignition light.clean the probes that sit right on the burners with sandpaper and see what happens,if that doesnt work if the unit has pilots clean the pilot orfice and if that doesnt work the heat board may be bad.how old is the unit?