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Kenmore Thermostat On the Hi Limit themostat I am getting continuty for red to red white conections through the themostat but no continutity for the puple contection terminals through the themostat. Will this mean the thermostat is bad and will cause the dryer not to turn on.

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order or study the wiring diagram, could be a hi/lo heat setting circuit, the dryer should spin no matter what heat problem, jump the door switch


Posted on Jul 11, 2008

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Kenmore High limit switch

if the high limit is blown the dryer will not run.It can be checked for can jump the two wires together to see if the dryer runs.Do not leave it jumped out permently just to test it.If this is bad replace and clean the vent the entire vent.

Sep 19, 2012 | Kenmore 64892 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Drier works but doesn't get hot heating coils look ok.there is a white thing with two wires going to it that has continuity.there is also a thing that looks like a black circle with 2 big red wires and...


These 2 things your describing are they on the housing where the heat element or the housing where the lint filter is??
i suspect they are the housing where the lint filter goes and the white on is the thermal fuse and it is good because it has contunuty on it (if it were bad the dryer would not start) the one w/4 wires is the cycling thermostat annd it too is good...the red wires will have continuty and the purple wires will not.

NOW THEN WHAT YOU NEED TO CHECK is the heat element for continuty AND both of the thermostat on the housing where the element fits BOTH t-stats on that housing should have continuty.


Sep 06, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore elite gas dryer won't heat.I tested thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, thermistor and gas valve. All within spec or have continuity.

Hello Chuck,
In addation to what you have checked here is a list of what else to check

Flame box on burner tube...check for continuty

Ignitor...check for 120 vac too it

Timer/control board heat relay..on models w/timer check for contunity in heat circuit on timer. ON models w/control check that heat relay on board is closing and has continuty

Motor switch..check that heat circuit is closed and has continuty when motor is running and motor switch has closed for heat circuit(the start winding switch on motor will be open when running)



Aug 09, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Hello< My dryer is spinning no

The problem when the dryer runs but doesn't heat is usually caused by a failed high-limit thermostat and a blown thermal cut-off both located on the heater housing. Verify this by bypassing both parts for troubleshooting purposes then running the dryer.

Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the bottom front panel to the bottom flange of the cabinet. Slide the panel down and off the cabinet to access the heater housing.

Remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield and remove the shield.

Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards. Let us know should you need further advice.

Jan 11, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110.74612200 won't heat ... drum spins and blows air but doesn't heat up

Possibly sounds like your high limit thermostat which is normally the problem with all dryers. When they go bad it will cut the power from your heater. The high limit thermostat is located on the top left of the heater core which is the smallist thermostat on the unit with two red wires running to it one solid red and one solid red with a white stripe. Need a volt meter with a buzzer on it to see if the high limit thermostat is bad just set your volt meter to buzzer or bell symbol normally has a bell on it. Take the positive and negative leads to the thermostat and see if it makes a noise if it does then the thermostat is good if it dosnt make a noise then it is bad (replace it) then if the high limit thermostat is good move down to the heater and test the same way if the heater dosnt make a noise after putting test probes on it your heater is bad continue to test the different thermostats (should be 3 thermostats) (the white rectangle with the two blue wires going to it is a thermo-fuse no need to test it) if they all work and including the heater it is possibly a power problem with your cord or jack and if that is good it is a bad timer that will have to be replaced. You can purchase all these parts from a Appliance Parts House in your area and if you feel unsure on how to test or replace the parts call a qualified technician to come out to your home.

Jan 04, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Electric dryer. We replaced the heating element. Now a soon as you turn it on, the back inside of the drum glows red hot. Could it be the themostat?

HI. The thermostats in this particular case will be the focal point for your troubleshooting. I would recommend to test all that are included in the unit, especially, the high limit thermostat. I believe this will be the culprit. Be sure that the unit is well ventilated, also. clean out the entire ventilating assembly, if needed.
Thermostat testing procedure:

To test the thermostats or fuse, set your multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

NOTE_ If all temperature monitoring devices test out ok; Replace the main control device.

Dec 06, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore Model# 90412 Item # 41783042300

The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), Heating Element or Hi-Limit Thermostat are all logical choices. If the dryer had an overcurrent condition that caused your terminal block to burn, you may have more than one problem. The component readings should be as follows:

Thermal Cut-Out - (0 ohms)
Hi-Limit Thermostat - (0 ohms)
Heating Element - (9-13 ohms)

If the either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, you need to replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you do replace. These components are commonly sold as a set for this reason.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED and any components under test should be isolated (meaning disconnect any wires). This ensures you don't have any false readings due to parallel resistance paths.

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located on the outside of the heater box where the heating element is located. The TCO will be the component at the opposite end of the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat will be adjacent to the heating element terminals.

Also, I know an electrician wired everything up for you, but I would still recommend you double check the terminations at the terminal block. The wires should be connected as follows:

Match these corresponding colors at the terminal block -

RED - HOT (120 VAC)

GREEN (or Bare Copper) - Ground. Needs to be connected to the ground lug on the equipment cabinet. Ground and Neutral DO NOT get terminated together in a 4-wire configuration. Make sure these two wires are isolated from each other.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the outer two terminals are the hot leads. The center terminal is your neutral.

If you have questions, please post back with your complete model number, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Oct 15, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer heat not working not sure how to check the heat element to see if the coils are bad or just the: thermal fuse, thermostat limit switch.

to check to see if coils are bad you need to do a continuty check. Remove electrical connections on the ends of the drier element. Get your ohm meter and ohm the element. If your element is good you'll get a signal, no signal , bad element. If the element is good then the problem is more than likely the hi limit switch. Good luck on repairs


Sep 01, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer mdl#110 67832791 no heat bought a element 100 dollars w/overnight shipping did not fix problem !!! charged credit card 15 for advice! themostats high limit stat...

check the white fuse on the blower can
make sure you are getting 240 volts
the safty fuse and tstats you said you checked
only other thing is the timer

Apr 18, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

Feb 20, 2008 | Dryers

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