I have a DLE0322 dryer. (i know it's not the same as above, but close enough). I know electronics enough to get in there and test components. When we first got the dryer (4 years ago) it had a thermostat issue that a repairman fixed. Fast forward to 6 months ago, and we hadn't had another issue untill it just quit working. I opened up the dryer only to find a charred wire. The wire was on a white resistor looking item. Yellow wire. I repaired it, and the dryer worked fine.
Then about a month later it quit again, i checked everything and found TH2 (safety thermostat) had gone bad, and replaced it. A month later, same thing. Now it's turning into almost every month like clock work i'm replacing this TH2 therm. It's not an expensive part, but shipping is always horrid on these parts. And 20 bucks a month is starting to add up. What could be my issue? We do a lot of laundry in this house, but this is too much.
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Re: Replacing saftey thermostat monthly
Clean dryer vent to improve airflow so dryer will not cycle on high limit thermostat. The best way is to use a cordless drill vent cleaner designed to clean dryer vents. Manual brushes are also available, or you can disassemble, clean, and reassemble vent. (if so, use the foil tape when reassembling) Make sure you are not using flex dryer venting. This should also improve dryer performance, reducing dry time.
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You probably have a bad thermostat or burned out heating elements. Once in a while the problem is a broken or burned-out wire terminal in the heater circuit. To track down the problem, you'll need to use an ohmmeter or other continuity tester. You can find a circuit diagram inside the control panel; this will identify the wires by color so you know which ones go to the two heater elements and thermostats.
Note: two-terminal dryer thermostats are supposed to be closed (less than 0.1 ohms resistance) when cold and open above the trip point temperature. You can test the trip point by heating the thermostat in an electric skillet with known good dial calibration - just be careful not to burn the insulation on your meter's test leads on the skillet. Three terminal thermostats are rare, but they would have one contact open and one closed to a common terminal; the open/close order reverses at the trip point.
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
there is a saftey relay that might be bad and needs replacing.. this is there for keeping dryer from starting a fire or over heateng.. when the dryer start heating the saftey switch is on and once it stops heating the switch is open and and will not dry.. it could be a heating element once it gets hot it expands and will not heat..
Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.
I don't know what you mean when you ask about fuses since a blown fuse would stop power to the dryer, but I do know a common reason for a dryer to run and not produce sufficient heat is that it may be cycling on the "safety" thermostat. One common reason for this is that the "cycling" thermostat (which is the thermostat which the dryer should cycle on), located in the exaust air stream, is insulated with collected lint, which also lowers the air flow through the ducts. You may just need to thoroughly clean the accumulated lint. I would suggest buying the service manual for your dryer, if available, and go to the manuals troubleshooting guide.
A test for cycling on the safety thermostat is to run the dryer with a damp load and watch the flame through the small service door at the bottom of the dryer; if the flame stars cycling on and off every, say 15 to 30 seconds, then the dryer is cycling on the saftey thermostat, if the flame repeatedly burns for close to a minute or longer, than that is not the problem.