My rockford p3001 keeps clickin in and out it didnt do this before i changed head units i was usin a pioneer head unit my amp worked great hittin supper hard then i replaced my head unit with a tko 4" dvd and when i turn it so far up the amp will click and the output stops but it will click back on for a sec before clickin back off i nocited if i turn the bass down on the stereo i can turn it up louder it does on stereo mode and cd i'm pushin two 12" p3's which are wired parral and bridged if that makes a differnce
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Re: amp clickin in and out
Had a similar problem, mine was a power problem. Power meaning voltage. Those big bass speakers draw lots of power. My original alternator couldn't keep up.
Question: Do your headlights dim in rhythm to the bass hits?
If so, your sound system wants more power than your vehicle is producing.
My first solution was a high output alternator. It worked great.
Then I added another amp. Not great anymore.
My second solution was to tie in a large capacitor to the amps power supply. (These a big (1 farad), about the size of a Pringles can)
Your amps power consumption is not uniform. Each time your amp punches the bass, it draws extra power. If that power isn't available, it starves and shuts down (if only for a second) then restarts.
The higher the gain, especially using a low pass filter, the more power needed for each thump. Thats why when you turn the bass down, you can get higher volume from the rest of the system.
How a capacitor can help (simply put): In this application, the capacitor acts like an auxiliary battery, smoothing out power fluxuations. The capacitor builds up its charge literally between bass hits when power demand is low. Then releases it's charge when the demand is high. Think of it as an on-demand power boost.
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if amp is mounted to back of the box try and move to in front of box near subs or port. the air movement of the sub will help keep the amp cooled. or you can orer some 12v cooling fans and take back plate of the amp and cool it that way. or you can buy higher quality audio, your choice
peel the cover completely off the amp and give it some power- if the amp is blown there will be a tiny light lit up on the circiut board that quite simply says "SHORT"-If its blown then theres nothing you can do unless you are a badass of course- but if the amp is dear to you and you want to spend a little money on it to get it up and running again- go to rockfords website and get into the forums and ask the question-where do i get my fosgate fixed and it will pull up some mumbo jumbo but it tells you about a place called LANDIS TECHNICAL that bought up all the parts to their amps and is in the business of restoring the amplifiers to their factory specs and even sends you a new power certificate to go with your new and improved amp.hope that helps you-
As long as there is power to the Remote terminal, the amp is on.
If the rest of the system is off, the amp probably won't suffer, but why take a chance. Also, it will drain your battery overnight.
Put a switch in there somewhere. Make sure you can cut the power.
Great job on the click fix.
This does change my view of your original problem though.
Your description covered every symptom of power starvation.
The Remote is the amps 'On' switch.
Put +12v to the Remote, the amp turns on.
It's how the head communicates with the amp.
If the head units Remote Out was experiencing either an intermittant connection to the amp (loose wire, intermittant short) or power fluxuations of it's own, that would produce symptoms similar to power starvation (clicking off, coming right back on). Only it would be random.
Your Bass vs. Volume observations would also have been random. They weren't. You were able to reproduce the problem at will.
You probably have a multimeter handy.
Since running a hot lead to the remote terminal on your amp stopped the constant 'restarting', the next step is checking the Remote wire (condition and voltage) going from the head to the amp.
Start at the amp. Connect the negative lead to a ground. Connect the positive lead to the remote wire coming from the head unit. I assume you disconnected it from the amp. It shouldn't matter.
When the head is on, it should be +12v.
With the meter still connected, slowly turn up the bass.
Then the volume. The voltage should remain constant no matter what.
This has been mostly FYI.
Rule #1: If it ain't broke, don't fixit.
Feel free to contact me with any other questions, problems or just to show off.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still remains in thermal protection, the amplifier likely has an internal fault and will need to be repaired.