I was installing a thermal cutoff, one of the wires came loose from the thermal block while i was reattaching the panel and cause a spark. Now there is no power from those leads. Is there anything else that could have shorted out in the dishwasher?

If it's a gas dryer there I is probably a infrared censer that checks to see that the gas ignited. Check the wiring diagram and appliance repair sites on the web for info about your dryer. Dust can cover the device blocking its view of the flame causing the dryer not to start.

Hello,

Very likely whatever made the terminal block break caused the internal thermal fuse inside the dryer blow,causing the dryer to now not start. You can get to the thermal fuse which is not resettable and must be replaced by removing the front panel and find the thermal fuse in the housing where the blower wheel is...it will look smilar to this picture for you exact model the part number is 306604 and the terminal block with should also be replaced is 400008 they could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at;
apdepot.com
searspartsdirect.com
partselect.com
apwagner.com
repairclinic.com



GENE

Problem could be the thermal fuse cutoff on top of the lamp assembly. Has two wires going to it. A good test is to remove one wire and connect an alligator jumper to the two wires by passing the thermal fuse cutoff and see if it will stay on. Clean out any dust in the chassis as it can cause overheating. Do not leave the set hooked up this way permanently! Just to test!

There is a thermal cutoff switch in all hairdryers. If you by accident block the air intake or the filter is dirty, then the heat from the nichrome wire is not sufficiently cooled to keep the thermal switch from tripping. After the dryer cools down then the thermal switch resets and allows operation. Be sure the air flow into the dryer is not obstructed

The first thing I would like you to do is get your model number from the dryer, it is located near the inside the of the dryer door. you need to make sure you have the right heater and thermal cutoff kit. The manufacture has more than one type of heater and thermal cutoff kit out, (( some will not work with others ))... Call another parts store or sears and make sure you have the correct parts !!

Most of the thermo cutoff kits have direction and if they are not making scence then the chance of you having the rong one is good !!!!!!!

If you remove the thermal cutoff from your origanal heater and then look at how many conetion pins are left. The new heater and old heater should be the same.

The most common heater is the 2 conection. But they made one with three. and if you have the one with three, it has to be replaced with the same one !!!

Without knowing the model of your machine, I cant tell you how to wire your machine.

I recomend you use the direction that came with the Cutoff kit.

If your water heater dies, here's a quick way to find out if it is the Thermal Cutoff. First, MAKE SURE there are no obstructions in the flue tube. Then turn off the water heater's electric mode and turn on the gas mode. With the exterior access door open and looking at center of the water tank you'll see a black foam-covered area with 4 wires running to it. Look for the area marked T-STAT with two brown wires running to it. One of the wires will have a piece of clear tubing over it that covers a large diode- this diode is the Thermal Cutoff. (Mine didn't look burned or in any way defective, so a visual inspection won't tell you if it's bad or not.)
Remove the diode from the T-STAT terminal lug then disconnect the other end of the diode from the brown wire connector. Now connect the brown wire (without the diode attached) directly to the T-STAT terminal lug. Give it a few seconds and the water heater should turn on in gas operation mode. If it does, that means the Thermal Cutoff is bad and you'll need to get a new one from Atwood. Leave the wire hooked up, turn on the electrical mode to supplement gas mode (if you want) and you'll have hot water till you get the new Thermal Cutoff.
If the water heater doesn't turn on after a minute or so chances are it's not the Thermal Cutoff and you'll have to look elsewhere for your problem.

If the display still works but neither the Bake or the Broil elements wont heat up, it's likely that the Thermal Cutoff has opened and has not reset itself. This is a common problem after self Cleaning.
The fix is to replace the Thermal cutoff which requres you to pull the oven and remove the back panel to get at the thermal cutoff.
What happens is that in Self Clean, both Broil and bake elements are used and the oven gets so hot that the middle skin (between the oven liner and the back panel, where the thermal cutoff is mounted gets so hot the thermal cutoff operates. It should reset itself but sometimes doesn't and then you have to replace it.

Verify 220 volts to the terminal block where the cord attaches.
Check the door switch for continuity.
Check the thermal fuse on the right hand side of the heating element just below where the heater wires connect.
You may need a flashlight to see this fuse.

It most likely is the thermal fuse.
If so correct any vent blockage or you will blow another fuse.
The fuse comes in a kit including the hi-limit switch.
Replace them both.

you will need too take off your back panel of your dryer and the heater is on your right the thermal cutoff is on the left of the heater housing at the top and then there is a little white thermal cutoff on your blower housing in the bottom left of the dryer now if this is not how your dryer looks let me know cause there is several different style of kenmore dryers but this is the most common one

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element