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Re: water hookup lines
You can buy a copper instalation kit from lowes which i reccomend as mice can chew through the plastic and the plastic lines are safe but no one gets out of this world alive global warming scares me more
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If it's pvc pipe, you'll need to be sure you've used pic pipe glue(blue, consistency of syrup) you'll add a coat of it inside the female end of your pipes, then insert the pvc you're connecting to and it should seal that connection.
If it's that black hose like tubing, you can do the same thing and seal the connection with the glue. Generally the flexible tubing is mainly for drip lines in flower beds, any sprinkler lines going underground should be PVC.
You may want to add a water pressure regulator to control that as well. You can get them at Home Depot. You'll place it just before your sprinkler system valve. In this order: There should be a water line from the street for your house, there you'll add the regulator, which will connect to the valve for your irrigation water and that gets connected to your sprinkler line. Be sure each connection is sealed with the blue glue and excess is wiped clean, and any end caps are sealed. You should now have water hitting the regulator before hitting the valve.
The water goes out of the drain line, usually a 3/4" PVC tube. You ill need to find the end of the drain line and put a wet-vac vacuum cleaner over it and **** the clog out of it. You have a clogged drain line.
If this unit is new more than likely the condesate drain line does not have a deep U shaped "trap"in it. This allows the negative air pressure inside the unit to draw air up thru the drain line holding the water inside the cabinet until the fan shuts off, then the water can drop out of the unit everywhere.
If the system has been in foe some time and has the proper "trap" the drain line could be plugged any where there is a turn in the pipe. It is a messy clean out but it can be done by cutting the straight PVC pipe, right after the screw in fitting and the 90. This will allow you to unscrew the fitting at the unit and clean it out. Sometime there is a gel like clog that grows at this point. Then you can take a wire or compressed air to clean out the rest of the line to the outlet. Next pour hot water thru the PVC and see how it comes out the end. Worst case you will need to pour a solution of hot water and white vinegar to remove any build up.
Clean out the new ice maker with warm soapy water.
Ensure that the floor surface under your refrigerator is level. If the floor surface under your refrigerator isn't level, you can place shims under the legs of the refrigerator to fix the uneven surface.
Turn off the main water supply to your house.
Clear the water line by running the faucets until the pipe clears.
Screw the copper supply line's connector to the house's cold water connector valve. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection.
Slide the compression sleeve and nut onto the other end of the copper supply line. The compression sleeve and nut will wrap around the outside of the copper supply line.
Bend the copper supply line to fit into the water line inlet casing located on the back of the refrigerator. Leave slack in the line so that the refrigerator can be pulled away from the wall or cabinets. The water line inlet casing is a plastic bracket used to hold the copper supply line in place so that there is no pull on the tubing's connection. It is the larger of the two plastic brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Insert the compression sleeve located around the end of the copper supply line into the ice maker connector. The ice maker connector is already installed on the back of the Maytag refrigerator.
Tighten the nut over the connection between the compression sleeve on the copper supply line and the ice maker connector with an adjustable wrench.
Attach the water supply tube clamp to the water supply line by clipping it into place. The water supply tube clamp is a plastic bracket located on the back of the refrigerator that holds the supply tube so that it doesn't rattle and become disconnected. It is the smaller of the two brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Turn on the main water supply.
Check all connections for leaks.
Position the drain hose located on the back of the ice maker over your floor drain. Use a PVC pipe if you need to redirect the drain hose flow so that it falls over the floor drain. The PVC pipe should not touch the drain hose and should have no low point where the water can settle.
Plug the ice maker into a 3-prong grounded outlet.
The valves are simple to check. Remove the valve then hookup the water to the usual connector. Then hook 120 volts via an extra power cord to the valve. I recommend you crimp the proper connector to the end of the cord and plug that onto the valve. You can also use Alligator leads, but this comes at the risk of then coming off and shorting out. Whenever doing anything like this always cover the exposed ends with electrical tape. Then plug in the power cord. If the valve is working it should allow water to pass freely through the valve. The German washers also typically use an "air column" to shut the water off via a pressure switch. Check this pressure switch by hooking up a hose or just unhooking the one on it and measure the contact with an ohm meter. The contact should switch when you blow onto the tube simulating the water rising in the air column.
Parts can be found online or via your area dealer.
Yes, With a water dispenser or even an ice maker you need to connect to a cold water pipe. The connection is a simple "saddle valve" which clamps over your water line and then you screw a sharp piercing point into the water line. After peircing the water line you back the point back out to let the water flow. A 1/4" tubing either plastic or copper will go from the valve to the back of the refrigerator. The tubing hooks to the back of the refrigerator with a simple slip or compression fitting.
You can run the tubing for long distances if you need to but usually in a kitchen area it is not too far to find a water pipe.
So go ahead and buy that fridge that you want, knowing that the hookup will be a simple easy, procedure!!
get a plastic barb connector at lowes, or eq. inside the fridge side connect the end of the old tubing to the new tubing with the barb connector and pull the old line out from the back of the ref untill the new line comes out the rear of the machine to the water valve and reconnect tubing inside fridge
Cold water supply at Fridge location. Run 1/4" tubing and connectors to match the supply valve and solenoid valve on the Fridge. Should be just one tubing connection.
If you do not have a supply at your Fridge, you can shut off your main supply and tap into the cold water line and run you a supply over to the fridge. use 1/2" PVC pipe and fittings to route over to the fridge. Get a Threaded adapter to connect a shutoff Valve. This way you have a way to keep the main supply on and hook up the Tubing from the fridge to the supply.