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Refridgerator compressor cycles on for 6 seconds then off for 1 minute

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  • Anonymous Sep 30, 2008

    My one year old GE GTS18GBS Refrigerator cycles on and off until it trips the breaker. The compressor sounds like the voltage is low (it isn't running fast enough) but I checked it and there is 122 volts at the outlet.

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It sounds like a bad: 

  • ·       start switch (on the side of the compressor) or
  • ·        compressor itself

the start switch clicks  off usually when the compressor is pulling too many amps or the compressor is overheating. if the compressor is not even running then its probably not overheating.
·                                 so either the compressor is pulling too many amps (bad compressor) or the start switch is bad and cannot handle the amps required to start the compressor.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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Hello,I have Admiral GS22B7C3E fridge freezer and the problem I have with it that the compressor cycle is all the time on and doesn't goes off.At the moment the freezer is turned off and unpluged.What could be the solution?

Posted on Oct 29, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

TSSU4812 refregirator making clicking sound and not cooling


Without a compressor analizer you will need to check the winding
resistance. or you can just cross your fingers and hope the relay
and start capacitor are the problem. Sounds like the condenser coil was plugged so you could possibly have a locked up compresor.I doubt it is low on refrigerant charge.

Jan 15, 2013 | True TSSU-48-12-ADA Sandwich/Salad Unit,...

1 Answer

HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hotpoint future freezer red light stays on and motor makes buzz noise every few mins but only for about two seconds.


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Your hearing the compressor Thermal overload cycle every few minutes for no more than 45 seconds. The compressor is not starting at all or it is not cycling from the start winding to the run winding so the KliXon thermal overload is tripping. That switching of windings is done by the PTC relay mounted on the side of the compressor. The Compresor part number is EMY32CLC. PTC relays can be found here:
http://www.europart.co.uk/s.nl/sc.2/category.690082/.f You will have to match your relay to the image.

I would recommend using the phone locally to purchase the relay AFTER performing the following.
POWER OFF / Unplugged WAIT 30 minutes for the compressor to cool and the coolant pressures to stabilize. After 30 minutes plug in the unit and see if the compressor starts.


POWER OFF / Unplugged
IF after 30 minutes the compressor does not restart....
1. Read the pins of the compressor to the case of the compressor. No grounds allowed.
2. Read pin 1 to pin 2 (on 2 pin compressor) you should read resistance.
3. If you have a 3 pin compressor only 2 of the 3 pins will read to each other at any given time. One for start winding and one for run winding with 3rd pin being common.

A locked compressor rotor/armature will also cause the compressor not to start. A locked rotor requires compressor replacement. (Fingers crossed lets hope that the rotor is not locked!)

Hopefully your unit will restart. A momentary loss of power will cause a compressor to hot cycle and not restart. All it takes is about a 8 second power loss to put the compressor into this no start frenzy. Do the 30 min no power thing and see what happens. (maybe save your self lots of money.)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly





Dec 05, 2010 | Hotpoint FFA70 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer and refridgerator not cooling. Clicking sound comes on every 4 6 minutes.


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. The clicking your hearing is the compressor thermal overload cycling. If there was a momentary power loss the internal coolant system pressure will be to high and the comprssor will not start. The additional heat generated from the continued thermal overload cycling is enough to keep the compressor from starting after a power loss also. Unplug the unit for about 20 minutes and then pluch it back in. Hopefully at this point it will start. If not there can be a few things that will cause it not to start.

1. The comprssor PTC Relay mounted on the side of the compressor under the plastic cover.
2. The black run capacitor usually located on the chassis to the left of the comperssor.
3. The compressor rotor has locked due to an internal failure or a compressor winding has failed.

If after the 20 minute power off period it does not restart please respond with your complete model number so I can make reference to parts and troubleshooting procedures with a Meter / Tester.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Nov 24, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Compressor runs only a few seconds then clicks off


The compressor is going bad, check your owners manual for warranty information or look here http://b2b.frigidaire.com/support/manuals.asp if you cant find the manual. Some units have up to 7 years on the sealed system (the compressor, cooling coils, and hot coils).

Jan 30, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Compressor won't start. Roper refridgerator, fan runs, lights work, compressor won't kick on. ~ 6 - 7 year old


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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.

Dec 13, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Air conditioning problems...air flow nothing cool


You need to double check the refridgerant charge - system holds anywhere from 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of R134a refridgerant. If you are sure refridgerant charge is correct I suspect it is a low side pressure cycling switch problem. Located on the passanger side towards the back of the engine on the silver accumulator - unplug connector; jump the two terminals together - if a/c compressor clutch comes on and stays on replace the switch.

Aug 02, 2009 | 2000 Cadillac Escalade

1 Answer

Problem has returned to Maytag fridge


I note this is a very old post. The compressor is not starting and what you were hearing was the PTC relay energizing followed by the KilXon thermal overload kicking off the compressor start sequence. What happens is that the PTC relays sometimes get a heated contact. Due to the weakened state of the contact it can cause a buzz. Even with a goo PTC relay you would hear the compressor buzz if it was not starting. In that case the run capacitor may have failed or the compresor rotor is internally locked at which point the start cycle will repeat every 3 to 4 minutes as the thermal overload cycles and the compressor will not start.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly

Jun 18, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Don't start smooth


restarting of refridgerator may damage your compressor motor due to overload.

when you switch off the refridgerator the compressor is in load condition, sudden restart overload the motor, it consume more current so the light going to dim.

solution. If your refridgerator have no delay circuit inside,
use a refridgerator stabilizer or attach a delay circuit,
if you have the the restart delay circuit may problem repair it.

Jan 18, 2008 | Refrigerators

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