Question about Speed Queen Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Follow these steps: 1. Remove the three screws in the back of the machine that holds the top of the washer on. The top case should slide back and then lift off. 2. With the dispenser tray off, remove the torx screw behind it. 3. Now take a putty knife and gently place it under the console just above the door. Gently lift up and pull the console from the left hand side first. It should gradually pop off. Be careful not to damage any of the wire connectors. Lay the console across the top of the washer. 4. Remove door by removing the hinge screws. Support the door while loosening so that it doesn't fall. 5. Feel around behind the rubber door boot at the door opening. There will be a wire retaining hoop holding the rubber boot to the door frame. Find the tension spring at the bottom of the door and pull the hoop out of the groove. 6. Pull door boot off the door frame opening and push it inside the drum. DO NOT remove the boot from the wash tub. 7. Remove the three screws holding the door latch assembly to the front of the washer. 8. The only thing left holding the front of the washer on is four screws. One on each corner at the top and one on each corner at the bottom. Once you remove the last four screws the front of the washer will come right off. I now this seems very involved, but it is simple if you follow the steps given. Reassemble everything in reverse order. Use care when handling the wire harness of the console and the door. Make sure you put the door latch assembly back on FIRST before you reinstall the rubber boot. When reinstalling the door boot reseat the gasket all the way around the door frame first. Then take the wire hoop and reinsert in the groove starting at the 12 o'clock position and work your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. You might want to have a second person assist you with holding the hoop in place at this point. With tension holding the hoop into the groove, take the remaining portion of the wire hoop and pull down while spreading the tension spring apart to snap it back into place along the bottom of the door. This will be your greatest challenge. The console will snap back into place by inserting the bottom edge first then snapping the top into place. Let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 14, 2007
SOURCE: Washer Drum Off Center
To my knowledge most washers have transfer bolts or retainers that keeps the position of the drum firm while in storage or in transit. there would be 3 or four of them. Please verify that all the transfer bolts were removed.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
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Posted on Jul 25, 2008
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
Your problem is the water inlet valve has failed part # AP3128776 This is fairly common especially if you have hard water or well water.
Just enter that # at www.appliancehelponline.com
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
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