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Having a problem with furnace igniting. I call for heat and the blower motor turns on and the inducing fan motor turns on but the smartvalve ingnitor doesnt seem to want to heat up. How do I check if it is the ignitor?

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2 ways 1 place a volt meter in the ingniter plug and wait for the timing of ignite power.if no power disconnect vacume tube off switch at draft motor and clear the port on the furnace houseing, paper clip works well. if port is clear then draft switch may be bad

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My Honeywell smartvalve stop opening the gas valve, inducer motor started, glow and pilot happen, just no fire...I replaced said smartvalve and upon installation, the inducer motor wouldnt run, no glo


Double check the wiring connections, maybe you have the pilot valve and the main valve wiring reversed. I had a call one time where the homeowner installed the gas valve backwards, so no flow and of course and the wiring on the three terminals was reversed.

The inducer should start whether or not the gas valve is wired wrong, unless it is wired in parallel with the pilot valve.

Jan 21, 2015 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My Honeywell smartvalve stop opening the gas valve, inducer motor started, glow and pilot happen, just no fire...I replaced said smartvalve and upon installation, the inducer motor wouldnt run, no glow or...


Smartvalves are tricky and a certain sequence must happen. Without going into this in depth, try this:
Install new smartvalve
Set thermostat to the off position
Kill the power to the unit
Restore power to the unit
Turn the heat on with the thermostat
In this order!

Aug 29, 2017 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Have an older Coleman mobile home furnace (Mdl 8665D766). Both blower fan and booster motor work fine; however, during heating, booster motor will keep constantly running after system cycles through


The booster motor? Do you mean the inducer motor that helps push the exhaust? If the inducer motor won't shut off when the thermostat is satisfied and everything else does shut off, it sounds like the contacts on the relay that powers the inducer are at fault

Feb 03, 2018 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do I wire a induce fan motor


Induced fan motors on older units are wired through the high limit safety on the stack - in series. When the furnace calls for heat, the induced fan motor comes on and after a time the furnace will light.

Older units have a temp switch in the stack that rotates to bring on the burners and blower motor. . When there is a call for heat, the induced draft fan motor comes on and then the burners will light.

After the heat exchanger is warmed up the limit switch will bring the blower motor on. That's basically how it works - there are two circuits - one for the induced draft motor and the burners and the other for the blower and high limit.

New units have a plug on the board you just plug in.

A

Oct 04, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Changed inducer motor, now furnace will not ignite and gives code 31


since there is no model number to go by, let's go generic. Most inducer motors have some way of "proving" it is running to the control board. It may have a centrifugal switch in it or it may have use some type of air pressure switch. The centrifugal switch will usually have 2 wires other than the power wires and most of the time, go to the rear of the motor. The air switch usually has a small rubber hose that pushes onto it and is connected to the fan housing.

Aug 06, 2017 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a goodman modle gms80703ana and at first the inducer fan would kick on in it's normal cycle then the furnace would shut off do to a pressure switch. Now the inducer fan only come on perodicaly...


First unplug your furnace to reset it then plug it back in with thermostat set to heat high enough to make the heat come on. As soon as the inducer motor came on you JUMP the 2 wires that go to pressure switch. Your igniter should come on and gas valve should open for heat. If the flame stay on the blower should come on after a few minutes. If it get to this point your problem could be pressure switch itself or inducer clogged.

Jan 30, 2014 | Goodman GMS807034ANA Heater

1 Answer

My York furnace sometimes doesn't completely ignite


A noisy inducer probably is headed for replacement.

The igniter can produce a healthy glow and still be defective. Mine had to be replaced with a new, improved one.

The thermocouple could be defective even though it seems to open the gas valve when it should.

The heat sensor in the bonnet could be defective. That controls main blower operation.

The heat exchanger could be cracked.

Jan 10, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an 11 year old natural gas forced air furnace--a Goodman GMPN100-4 Rev B, which is 100K BTU and 92% efficient which was working fine at the end of last winter. I went to turn it on for the first...


You are correct. If the inducer motor is warm, but not running, it has seized up. If you replace this yourself, I also suggest that when you replace the inducer fan, check to make sure the secondary heat exchanger isn't clogged, or the condensate drain(s). If you have an HVAC contractor replace it, he should do this for you. It shouldn't run more than $350, to have it replaced and he can check for clogs (The price I'm quoting is for standard hours).

You can check this yourself by running the inducer fan without it being attached to the furnace, then attaching it to the furnace. If you notice a significant reduction in airflow, then you have a clogged secondary heat exchanger. I've run across this situation before on this particular model. The owner recenly replaced the inducer motor, but couldn't figure out why he was still having problems. I suspect the clogged heat exchanger contributed to the inducer motor to failing previously, and feel It would definitely be worth checking while you have the fan removed to help eliminate any future problems that could result from this, including heat exchanger failure. The manufacturer of this unit actually recommends you clean the secondary heat exchanger every year, but this is overkill if your furnace was installed and set up properly. I'd recommend doing it every 10 years and you're at that mark now. Instructions on how to do this are in the manual for this unit if you have it. Otherwise, e-mail me at wheels38_97@yahoo.com and I can send you a copy.

Finally, check the limit and flame roll out switches after replacing, as they could have tripped when the motor failed.

Oct 22, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Ignition problem with furnace


hi igniter could be in the wrong postion or its not heating up all the way down or its got a crack in it

Jan 22, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

MY BLOWER WAS REPLACED IN THE SUMMER BUT IT NEVER TURNED OFF UNLESS WE SHUT IT OFF AT THE SWITCH. NOW I SWITCHED THE TSTAT TO HEAT AND THE INDUCER FAN TURNS ON WITH THE BLOWER BUT NOTHING EKSE TURNS ON. NO...


be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.

Oct 29, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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