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My 4 ton goodman heat pump goes into defrost and than after the cycle return in cooling stage at least the indoor coil starts freezing is the expansion valve working corectly

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The reason for indoor coil freezing due to coil dust blocked-(Clean coil). 2. Less rpm of indoor f.motor. (Replace capacitor). 3. Short of gas. (Find leak and repair and then recharge gas.)

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

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Goodman gph1348m41ac unit is blowing cool air in heat mode with mid 30s ambient outdoor temp. I turn it off then on and will usually blow warm air but this cycle is becoming more repetitive. any expert...


A heat pump on the optimal heating day (about 50 degrees ambient) will only deliver approximately 85 degree air as compared to 125 degree air from a fossil fueled furnace. The colder the outdoor air is the less heat there is available to be transferred to the living space. At 30 degrees, the heat transfer capability is getting close to negligible meaning the run cycles will be approaching continuous and eventually as the heat pump along cannot maintain setpoint, the outdoor stat or stats will bring on auxilliary heat in the air handler.

If your ambient temp is below the 'balance point' of the heat pump, the house temp will drop a little lower and most times energize the heat strips through the outdoor t-stat. Your outdoor stat could be set too low for the heat pump to carry the structure all the way down to the balance point so when you turn it off and back on, the lower indoor temp automatically brings on the heat pump plus a heat strip or two, thus the warmer air. Second stage on the stat satisfies due to the heat strip, drops them out of the circuit and the heat pump is left running on first stage heat delivering the perceived cold air.

Your outdoor stat could also be not functioning correctly and not allowing the heaters to come on until the system is turned back on reestablishing the two stage call for heat.

Tons of possibilities and not enough room to list....

Jan 01, 2015 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman GPH1348M41 4...

Tip

Why your unit is freezing up.


To understand why your AC or heat pump is freezing up, it helps to know how your system works.

There are 7 major parts to an AC system, 9 with a heat pump.

1 - Condenser/heat pump (The outdoor unit)
2 - Air Handler (the indoor unit unless the system is a package unit, then all is outside in one system. The air handler is usually found under the home, in an attic, or in a closet.)

In the condenser are the following major parts.

3 - Compressor
4 - Condenser coil
5 - Condenser fan
6 - (HPs only) reversing valve

In the air handler are the following major parts.

7 - Blower motor
8 - Evaporator coil
9 - (HPs only) electric heat strips

Some systems known as "dual fuel systems" use another heat source in place of the heat strips, usually a gas furnace. I will address gas furnaces in another post.

When an air conditioner is operating properly several things are taking place.

1 - The compressor is compressing or "pumping" refrigerant through the system.

2 - through changes in pressure, the refrigerant makes the evaporator coil get very cold, and the condenser coil gets very hot.

3 - The blower motor/fan circulates air across the evaporator coils, as the room temperature air (Also known as "indoor ambient") goes through the cold coil, it exits, cooled approximately 15 to 20 degrees cooler than when it entered. (In a ducted system, the blower is also the fan that circulates the air throughout the home.)

4 - The condenser fan circulates air across the condenser coils. As the outdoor air goes through the condenser coil, it removes heat from the coils that are very hot. This in turn removes heat from the refrigerant so it can run its cycle again, and through pressure changes, cool the evap coil.

5 - With a heat pump, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant in the condenser and evaporator coils.
In AC mode, the evaporator coils get cold, and the condenser coils get hot. But in heat mode, the evaporator gets very hot, and the condenser very cold.

Now, whichever coil is getting cold will freeze up if there is inadequate air flow across the coil, as the refrigerant in it is far below freezing, and there is not enough airflow to keep the humidity in the air from freezing on the coil.

Things that can cause poor airflow are,

1 - Dirty/clogged coils
2 - dirty/clogged filter (will only effect evaporator coil)
3 - Closed/blocked vents (will only effect evaporator coil)
4 - Malfunctioning or dirty fan

Low refrigerant will also cause a coil to freeze up, reduce efficiency and cause the system to run for long periods of time. Not to mention, shortening the life of the unit.

With a heat pump, in heat mode only, the condenser (outdoor) coil will routinely begin to freeze up in cold temperatures. This is due to the fact that the refrigerant is below freezing, and the cold outdoor ambient temp is not warm enough to keep the condensation in the air from freezing on the coil.

Note, a properly working AC should never freeze up.

A heat pump is equipped with defrost controls to prevent ice buildup.
Some are controlled by timers, some by temp.

When a HP is going into defrost mode, the condenser fan shuts down, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant and the once cold condenser coil now gets very hot, defrosting the coil. (Many people have said this process sounds like the unit is coming apart, or about to explode and are frightened by the "smoke" which is really just steam from melting ice that comes off the unit.)

During defrost mode, the secondary or "auxiliary" heat comes on to ensure that you are still getting warm air from the vents. (Again, this can be electric heat strips or a dual fuel system)

If you are experiencing cold air from the vents during defrost, that means your auxiliary heat is malfunctioning.

The auxiliary heat is used for three purposes.

1 - during defrost mode to maintain warm airflow (automatic)
2 - when the HP cannot maintain the set temp due to extreme outdoor temps. It comes on when the indoor temp drops several degrees below the set temp on the thermostat (automatic)
3 - For emergency heat source when the HP is not working. (Manual)

To recap....

Iced up coils?

Poor airflow
low refrigerant
Malfunctioning fan
failing defrost system


There are two things that can be done in a pinch to help de-ice frozen coils. This may get you by until the repairman can get there, or you can fix the system if you are a do-it-yourselfer.

HPs frozen outdoor coil in heat mode, not going into defrost?

Cover most of the vents, and turn the system onto cooling mode until the outdoor coil is thawed. then uncover vents and return to heat, or emergency heat. (this usually takes 15 min or less)

Frozen coils in AC mode with a heat pump?
Turn the system to heat with the thermostat on just high enough to get the system to come on. (again, usually takes 15 min or less to thaw.)

AC only, with frozen evap coils? (this can sometimes be seen frozen all the way outside to the compressor on the copper lines.)

Turn the system off, and the fan switch from "auto" to on".
This will usually defrost the coils within 1 to 2 hours.
(If your system has the furnace in line before the evap coil, turn the system to heat, and the furnace will defrost the coil within minutes.)



on Dec 25, 2008 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

1 Answer

Blows little heat


Check the filter & indoor coil...could be plugged up.

Dec 13, 2013 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman GPH1360M41 5...

1 Answer

I have noticed my heat pump is freezing up on the outside unit, we have had freezing rain and snow the last 2 days but I have never noticed ice accumulation on the outside of the unit, it also seems like...


In freezing weather the heat pump efficiency drops. The freezing is normal. The equipment has a board and sensor to defrost your heat pump. Now this system can fail but freezing rain and snow get pulled into the unit get pulled into the unit coil and freeze blocking airflow. You can defrost the unit by turning it to cooling. This is what the defrost board does automatically.

Dec 27, 2012 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have a 5 ton 16 seer condensor, the coil freezes up but the coil is clean, i tried adding freeon, but the compressor goes on and off i thought it would be either a low pressure switch or a high...


Compressor sounds out on thermals from being overcharged. Check your airflow across the coil- perhaps a faulty blower or control, restricted duct, or dirty filter could be the culprit to the initial icing. If not, repost with the refrigerant type and pressures.

Sep 26, 2011 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a goodman self contained heat pump that is 3 and 1/2 years old. I wake in the night to hear what sounds like the fan runnning and running and running and air moving thru the vents. Then I will hear...


Heat pumps are a very efficient design when working properly. But lose efficiency the colder it gets outdoors. I usually tell people when it drops below freezing to turn the thermostat to aux or em. heat. A heat pump can remove heat from 20°f air. But not very well. More heat at 30°f air, obviously, and so on. So the colder it is outdoors, the longer it will operate to remove heat from outdoors. And then, if it can't keep up, it brings on the electric heat elements to compensate. Now you are running both outdoor and indoor heat. This is where it's inefficient and costly. Also, the outdoor will start to freeze up. This is normal unless you can see a substantial amount of ice. The heat pump will engage defrost mode, cycling on the electric heat indoors. And defrost mode is actually cooling mode! The reversing valve in the heat pump switches to cooling mode, cycles off the outdoor fan, and defrosts for a set time or temp. So now your electric heat is engaged, and your indoor coil is a COLD coil! Not hot! Very inefficient. These 2 things are why your elec bill is higher in the winter. So it makes sense to me, if the elec heat is going to be on anyway, to move the tstat to aux or em. heat, when it's going to be below freezing outdoors. This will turn off the heat pump and use elected heat only. The only down side to this is, if you don't have enough elec heat to keep you warm, you may need both heat pump and elec heat. So trial end error until you find what works. Also, have a qualified tech check the system for operation and efficiency. Hope this helps!

Apr 08, 2017 | Goodman PHKJ048-1 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Our air con runs, on heat, and after a time cuts out, blows cold and makes a sort of hissing noise (but not a real hiss) and then shuts down. It then restarts after a couple of minutes. Is this normal?


Yes.Think of a heat pump as a A/C in reverce in cool indoor coil is cold&outdoor coil is hot.Naw indoor coil is hot &outdoor coil is cold&fan is pulling in cold air from outside.its going to iceup& go into defrost cycle.If your unit has a timed defrost every 30,60,or90min.(witch ever yours is set for)Defrost control board checks a sensor on cond.coil,if it is frozen unit goes into defost.You will here a swishing noise,iis the reversing of refrigerant.you will also notice the outdoor fan is not operating&at termanation of defrost fan will blow out steem.the other metod is on demand defrost.when coil freezes unit defrosts.

Mar 02, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Normal in cool cycle, very high pressure in heat cycle


Expansion valve on the condensor or possibly overcharged with refrigerant?

Nov 01, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Goodman heats but defrosts turns on before desired temp.


Yes. The defrost cycle of a heat pump is actually turning on your airconditioning to heat up the condenser to thaw it out. During this cycle your electric strip heaters "should" be adequate enough to compensate for the a/c being on. At about 30 - 34 degrees outdoor temp there is not enough heat in the air to to adequately heat your home with the heat pump only. Some technitions will use an outdoor thermostat to turn off the heat pump when it is under 34 degrees outside. If you are to cold when its under 34 degrees intall more electric strip heaters.. But if you do this your electric bill may go up significantly.
Welcome to the wonderful world of electric heat pumps (lol).
Good luck.

Mar 29, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Honeywell Thermostat


Make sure G from indoor unit goes to G on thermostat for fan continous fan, if that doesn't work and you have 24 volts to R and C then the t'stat is bad.
For 2nd stage heat or aux.heat, on the indoor unit you need to make sure the wire W2 from the indoor unit goes to W2 on t'stat.
You don't need any wires from W1on the indoor unit to W1 at the t'stat because with a York heat pump Y1 is the contactor which turns the compressor on and you will get 1st stage heat, and for cooling the t'stat will also bring on O which is the (reversing valve) or cooling changeover relay for the cooling mode.
C = common usually black wire
R = hot usually red wire
Y or Y1 = contactor
W1 = 1st stage heat not needed for heat pump
W2 = Aux. heat indoor heat
G = fan
O = Cooling changeover relay
B = Heating changeover relay
L = System monitor
E = Emergency heat relay

Dec 23, 2008 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

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