Question about KitchenAid Architect? II S SERIES KUDS03FT Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

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No power. Checked circuit breaker. OK. - KitchenAid Architect? II S SERIES KUDS03FT Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

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  • cmgwillis Jan 13, 2011

    Still not working. Put a new thermal fuse in. Kitchenaid sent a new control panel. Put that in. Circuit Breaker tests OK. A few months ago, a repairman replaced the inlet valve. Could there be a loose wire as a result of that?

  • cmgwillis Jan 13, 2011

    Thanks. I will try that. So far, I just checked the circuit breaker on the home circuit board.

  • cmgwillis Jan 20, 2011

    New control panel, new thermal fuse, wires all connected, power definitely getting to unit. Still nothing - no lights, nothing. My handyman thinks it could be the float switch. What do you think? I hate to resort to the Kitchenaid repairman. He charges $90 just to show up and he did a poor job replacing the inlet valve when he was here several months ago. It makes a vibrating noise. But, that is another issue (I think).

  • cmgwillis Jan 21, 2011

    I am also wondering if the ribbon cable could be the problem.

  • cmgwillis Jan 21, 2011

    Thank you for all of your help, but I finally had to resort to a repairman. He was very good, actually, and replaced a relay switch and another switch. He thinks that the motor got too hot, or there was a power surge that caused these things to burn out. It is working now.



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Welcome to FixYa.

The issue with your dishwasher is more than likely the fuse inside the control is all too common with those machines unfortunately.

I've attached a link at the bottom which will show step by step how to repair your machine.

You will first need to retrieve a new fuse, part number 661663


No power.  Checked circuit breaker.  OK. - macmarkus_219.jpg
they're available at most local brick & mortar parts vendors or on-line at depots such as "" or "" to name a couple.

In the video the fuse is slightly different so you will not have to cut or splice any wires, just follow the instruction as per removing the panel and turn the power of of course and you'll be fine.

Hope this helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further and I will try and help in any manner I can. Good luck.


Macmarkus :)

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jan 13, 2011

    Hello again,

    Did you happen to verify the unit had voltage at the fuse when replacing it, or did you ohm out the old fuse for continuity ?

    the other question I'd ask is whether you checked the junction box where the unit is wired to the home circuit ?


    Once you remove the screw holding the cover in place you should see the wires and connectors such as shown here ( for example only...this is from a different model )...

    Remove the wire connectors and inspect for loose or damaged wire connections, this too can manifest in the manner you've described.

    Of course I'll try to help moving forward, let me know what you find as well as what you've done to rule these things out, such as voltage to the fuse/control board.

    I'll watch for your reply.


    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jan 13, 2011

    **turn the power off of course and you'll be first**

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jan 13, 2011


    just remember to turn that breaker off before removing the junction box cover or performing any service requiring panel removals.

    I'll still be here whenever you want to move forward. Good luck.


    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Jan 21, 2011

    Hello again,

    I've been away for a bit and at the mercy of a "in & out again" internet connection, but I'll try to address the few things you touched on.

    1st) My handyman thinks it could be the float switch. What do you think?

    NO...the float switch has nothing to do with power going to the display nor will it prevent it from running. In the event the float switch where at fault it would either constantly drain or perform all functions with the exception of filling with water.

    2nd) wires all connected, power definitely getting to unit...

    This is very important what I say here...have you checked the power at the control/bi-metal fuse or at the junction box as I mentioned previous, please be specific where you check for power and what method you've used to check for power. i.e. volt meter or test light etc

    You'll need to verify there is voltage...120vac from one wire...either chassis/ground, 0vac across the 2 wires at the fuse...present at first the bi-metal and if not then at the junction box since the possibility of a broken wire between these points can not be ruled out until this is done.

    3rd) I am also wondering if the ribbon cable could be the problem.

    The issue of the ribbon connector being at is possible , Yes. However, on this machine the ribbon connector is part of the overlay/touchpad assembly as shown below and if it where faulty there typically is still some indication of a display it just won't respond to commands pressed.

    If you look into and confirm the unit having power in all the probper locations and yet there is still no display, I'd consider the ribbon/touchpad.

    There should be a test sheet/tech guide under the machine behind the toe panel. On this sheet should guide on how to test the touchpad...though it can be tedious and sometimes require three or four hands.

    Let me know if any of this helps clarify any of those questions posed or if we need to look into a possible touchpad is very rare. Good luck.


    Macmarkus :)



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