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Have a Singer UltraLock 14U46B (serger). I mainly overcast seams using the 4-thread mock safety stitch. I've been unable to adjust the tensions for an acceptable looking stitch. The stitches may start out ok, but after sewing a few inches the stitches from the left needle thread loosen, & the left looper thread appears on top. Then in a few more inches the tensions of the threads return to normal, but continue to alternate between loosening tensions, resulting in sloppy, inconsistent seams and overcasting. Is it due for major, professional adjustment and cleaning? Also, there is nothing in my manual that indicates the machine should be oiled (as with regular sewing machines). I've cleaned fuzz from around the feed dogs periodically, but don't know if / where it should be oiled. Please advise. janet 1-3-11

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
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SOURCE: Euro pro serger model 101-548

3 thread overlocking (serging) is no different t 4 thread, except you remove one or other of the needle threads.

The stitch width is then controlled by two variables,

the manual width dial selector, and
your choice of either the right or left needle

Suggest yo play with width selector on a scrap of your project fabric to achieve the look you are after.

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

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RickE1
  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: could not adjust both looper thread tention on singer ultralock

When servicing these machines I have found that the cover over the tensioners needs to be removed so you can see if there is more adjusting possible. If its a newer serger you would hold the knob somewhere in the middle (4-5) and adjust the knurled part that goes through it. Many times I have had to rebuild these tensioners as they get dirty and need cleaning and adjusting. It may take many tries until you have it adjusting correctly. But it needs to be done.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I had to rethread my Singer Ultralock serger and

what should the tension dials be set on? A general idea. And, do you know what function each dial is? I do not have a manual for my machine.

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: looper problem on 14SH644 Singer Ultralock Serger w/differential

You can find free manuals to down load from singer ..

http://www.singerco.com/accessories/manuals.html

Please vote !!

Posted on May 14, 2010

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1 Answer

How do I get a balanced tension with my Elna 624 overlocker?


The best way is to thread with 4 separate colors of thread and then studying the stitch result. With the 4 colors, you can easily tell which thread tension is "off" and whether it should be tightened or loosened. However, a serger is not like a sewing machine where you can set the tension and use that setting for most projects. With a serger, a change in one or a couple of thread tensions will create a totally different stitch.

For most machines, there is a mark at the midway point on each tension control that is the "optimal" tension for a 4-thread overlock. HOWEVER, every machine differs, so these settings may need to be tweaked.

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Different Serger Stitches and How to Use Them

You may want to download the serger workbooks at this site (Bernina), and work through each of the stitches. Make notes in the workbook as to how you have set up your machine to get the best of each stitch. This will be a great reference manual for many years.

Bernina Mastery Workbooks

Feb 23, 2017 | Elna Sewing Machines

2 Answers

When zig-zagging on raw edge stitches bunch


Use a different stitch, use the triple zig zag or serpentine stitch so he needle is going through the fabric three or four times as it swings left to right.ma plain zigzag, because thread is tensioned, will pull lightweight fabric up. Try another raw edge finish, such as french seams, pinking shears or overcasting stitch. Of course for professional looking seams an overlocker (serger) is the answer as it has blades that trim the fabric edge and neaten with 2, 3 or 4 thread seam, encasing the raw edge.

Sep 26, 2014 | Elna 3210 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

I am doing some sashes for a wedding and i want to know on my serger 14SH654 ultralock how to do a rolled hem


A rolled hem on any overlocker is formed by using the right hand needle only, and the two loopers to form a narrow three thread seam. You also need to retract the seam width finger as Trial2962 said. This is a little finger that sits on the stitching plate and the loopers form the stitching over it. By retracting it, the looper threads can form a narrow seam and in fact, roll the fabric inside the seam. You need to move the cutting blade as far right as it will go so you are trimming as wide as possible from the needle, turn the tension on the top looper rigth down to 2 so it is very loose and this thread wraps around to the underside. And tighten the lower looper tension to about 7 so it hardly shows and sits right up against the needle thread. Adjust and test until you get the seam looking like this, then turn the stitch length dial (on the right side by flywheel) down to 0.5 to close the seam right up tight. Lastly, if you can source it in the right colour, buy woolly overlock thread and run this through the upper looper only, this thread is fluffy and when not under tension, relaxes and "fills" out so the seam appears like a continuous coverage over the fabric.
9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg
You will need to practice a few runs and go slowly on corners, a curve is obviously much easier to serge than a right hand cover so if you can, cut the fabric with curved ends, much easier to get a great finish. When you chain off at the end, you need to unravel the tail threads and pull them inside the seam for a few mm with a needle to get a smooth finish, then trim the tail and seal with a drop of Fray Stop.9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg

Sep 04, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...


Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

2 Answers

How do you lengthen stitch. The stitches are so close together it looks like a satin stitch. I have no manual for it. thanks!


your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

May 19, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

I have a new Viking Huskylock S25 and the serger tensions are off and I cannot get them adjusted.


How do you mean the tension are off? A serger should have 3 or 4 tension knobs (although yours looks like it is push button digital settings) and generally from new these will produce a standard stitch when all are set to 5. Are you sure that you've got the thread pulled into the tension discs fully? Check each one by pulling on the thread below the tension disc and feel for resistance, if the thread pulls very easily, then recheck and thread again.

Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.

Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.

There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.

Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.

Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.

Just checked out this model on an Ebay vendor's site and it mentions a training DVD, you've got several different stitch types to master with this machine so there will be some learning and practice involved to get it right. Good luck - I hope this is of some help but I'd be visiting the dealer for specific help if you can.

Apr 29, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

My singer does'nt do dverlockWhat can I do ?


No sewing machine does a true overlock stitch, that is what sergers are for, they trim and form a stitch on the edge of the fabric using 1 or 2 needles and two loopers. Costs more for an additional machine but the finish is much more like a shop bought item.

tally_girl_14.jpgi

Some sewing machines have an overcasting or interlock stitch which looks like stitch 10 in this picture above. Your machine may have this stitch?

If not, does it have a three step zig zag? It looks like a zig zag but the needle goes into the fabric three times as it forms each leg of the zig zag. This stitch is great for neatening a raw edge and I use this a lot myself. Especially on wovens as it is always faster to seam with this rather than the overcasting stitch where the feed dogs move the fabric forwards, then backwards, then forward to make the stitch.

The sewing machine made overcasting stitch can be used to sew knit fabrics, attach rib around an neck line and neaten raw edges but it is always going to take longer than a serger and there is no trimming function so its never going to look like a shop made overlocked item. However, you can sew knit fabrics with a sewing macine with a bit of patience as long as the machine has some "Forwards/backwards" type stitches as these put elasticity into the seams - if you seam knit with a straight stitch, seams can break when under tension during wear.

And use a twin stretch needle and straight sttich to sew the hems, this looks a bit like a cover stitch and has a bit of give in it too.

Hope this helps you a little. You can find some good sewing general info on www.sewing.about.com or invest in a good sewing book. I refer to my Vogue Sewing Manual and my Singer Sewing Secrets often. Or take a sewing class, its a great way to learn new things, get enthused and have fun.

Apr 08, 2011 | Singer 3116 Simple

1 Answer

Could not adjust both looper thread tention on singer ultralock


When servicing these machines I have found that the cover over the tensioners needs to be removed so you can see if there is more adjusting possible. If its a newer serger you would hold the knob somewhere in the middle (4-5) and adjust the knurled part that goes through it. Many times I have had to rebuild these tensioners as they get dirty and need cleaning and adjusting. It may take many tries until you have it adjusting correctly. But it needs to be done.

Feb 12, 2009 | Singer Sewing Machines

5 Answers

Coverstitching on White Speedylock serger


Your machine cannot do a cover stitch. Check the Brother website, they make a cover stitch only machine, it works much better than any of the serger/cover stitch combination machines, and it is a lot less money.

Nov 19, 2007 | White Sewing Speedylock 1600 Mechanical...

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