Question about Ovens
For some time to turn on the oven to bake you had to press the button over and over, eventually we used the bottom of a knife to get the oven button to turn on. This is a 1989-90 electric oven/range with classic grille and a touch screen, model 911.4698813. More recently codes appearred instead of the clock, and a couple of times most recently the oven turned off with a code prior to heating to the setting. Any fixes or replacement parts that sound useful? Thanks,
I had the same problem. It occurred when it was in a cleaning cycling. I fot the F3 Fasult and also the door remained locked. I let it cool down overnight and killed the power at the circuit breaker. I turned the power on and got a F3 alarm and the door remained locked. I took our the screws holding the control panel and pull it out far enough to give me access to the locking mechanisim. I took out the screw holding the locking latch to the motor. With the latch loose, iwas able to get move it out of the door lock. With the door now open I was able to get to the temperature sensor with was held with two sheet mmetal screws. The screw were impossible to get out, so I ground off the heads with a Dremel tool. I couldn't get the sensor wires out. So I pulled the unit out to get at the back sde. I cut the old sensor wires and was able to get in the hole to remove the screws with a pair of needle nose pliers. I installed a new sensor and with wire nuts attached the sensor wires to the computer wires. Make sure that you work the insulation in the hole to plug it back up. Put the oven back in and installed the sensor in the oven with two small sheet metal screws. . refasten the locking latch to the locking latch motor. turn on the power and everything was fine. I ohmmed out the old sensor and it was 180 ohms at room temperature. The replacement checked out at a 1000 ohms in accordance with the schematic for the control. By the way, the schematic was neatly folded on the control panel when I removed it I used a Whirlpool sensor Part No. 12001656 which was half the price of a Kenmore sensor. +
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
The Spitfire EOC in our 2001 Kenmore smooth-top range blew a solder trace on its circuit board in 2006. Following this, we had trouble with the F-1 error code, first with a new EOC from Sears, which we returned (getting full refund), then with a replacement from Turners Timer Repair. We put up with the inconvenience, but a few days ago the oven elements wouldn't switch on, and I was coming under increasing pressure to buy a new range. I'd always suspected poor contacts where the ribbon cable from the touch pad plugs in to the terminator at the circuit board, but previous inspections seemed to indicate that the conductors in the cable were intact. Deciding to have one more look, I removed the EOC from the range last week, detached the ribbon cable from the terminator (by lifting uo the locking tabs on each side) and under closer inspection with a good light (under the cable) and 10X doublet mag. glass noticed that there was a tiny gap in one of the conductors exactly at the point where contact is made in the terminator. It was only necessary the cut about 3/32" off the end of the cable, enabling it to be pushed further down into the terminator, bypassing the offending gap. Fresh contact points for the other conductors may also have helped. The range has operated normally since, having gone through a 2hr cleaning cycle and two bakings without incident.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
We have an E1 and F2 code on our Kenworth oven (can't find the model number). The oven won't work but the surface burners do.
Anyone know what these codes mean?
Posted on Mar 17, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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