Question about Winchester (026196062448) (20 - 60x70 mm)

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I have an old octagon barrel 22 long rifel model 61 . the rod sleeve has a dimple 8" inches into it so, the rod won't go in at that point how can I fix this problem ?oh yes , it is an old winchester model 61

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Nice rifle! It depends on the shape and depth of the dent, but I think you might be able to push it out from the inside. If it's not too deep or cracked, you can try this method:
1. measure the inside diameter of the rod sleeve (called a tubular magazine). Sorry, I don't have one, so I can't tell you exactly what this measurement is.
2. Go to you local hardware store and buy a hardwood dowel rod that is just slightly smaller in diameter than the tube.
3. Round over the end of the dowel slightly with some sandpaper, clean and wipe it down with gun oil.
4. Slide the dowel into the tube until it reaches the dent, and tap it until it begins to pass that point. Don't let it go too far past, or it will be difficult to pull back out. Don't force the dowel into the tube if it doesn't slide freely (up to the point of the dent) or you won't be able to remove it. And don't push it past the point where you can grip it securely.
5. Pull the dowel back out, rotate slightly, and repeat.

But, use your best judgement: If it doesn't look like this method will work based on the shape and depth of the dent, you should take it to a competent gunsmith, and let them sort it out. Assuming that the rest of the rifle is in good condition, you have a classic that's worth repairing. Best of luck!

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

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I have a winchester 22 cal pump rifle,SN 67106. What model is it and what is its value? It was purchaced inGreen Bay, Wisc. just before the end of WW 2.


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Winchester Model 62 Pump Action Rifles The ultimate gallery gun

Several models of Winchester 62 pump action rifles. Top to bottom: 1906, 20-inch round barrel; 1890 octagonal barrel; prewar M62 with scope; postwar M62A.
Winchester Model 62 left side receiver. The huge "Winchester" rollmark may mean its a gallery gun.
No less than six generations of the Model 62 were made from 1932 until 1958. Three of these are pre-WWII while the other three are post-1945. The easiest way to tell postwar versions is that they have a 17-groove 8.75-inch foregrip while prewar versions have a 5.75-inch 10-groove grip. After 1940, the Model was modified with an improved hammer spring and dubbed the 62A, so if you see a 62A mark on your Winchester pump rifle, that is an easy way to tell that it was made after that year. The value of standard Model 62/62As start at about $300 for shooter grade guns and go as high as $1000.

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1 Answer

What year of mfg.108125 ?


Do you know what model it is?

Beings it's a .22, I'm thinking it's a Model 4, but usually those were a 22 1/2" barrel length.

1890-1933
Total production - approximately 356,000

If it's a "take-down" model, it COULD be a Model 6.

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Numbers 00001 - 498,000



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I have a Remington rifle which is a 22 caliber octagon barrel rolling block type serial number J282433. Any info on this rifle would be appreciated.


Could use more info, such as markings on the barrel and or breach. The Remington rolling block type single shot goes back to the 1860'S. The first 22 calibers around 1888. The rolling block went through 8 changes. The different types or changes are where various pins and screws are located, size and shape of hammers and triggers. The New Model Number 4, made from 1890 - 1933 came standard in 22 cal. with a 22 1/2 inch Oct. barrel. It will have a small lever on the right side of the breach. Approx 50,000 of these where made between the years noted. You could very well have a model 1, 2 or a model 7, which will be rare if in very good shape as only 1000, No. 7's where made. Tracking the serial number will be hard unless you contact Remington.

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1 Answer

Steering wheel changes


Here is the simple steps to change the old steering wheel and install the new one.

Remove the Original Steering Wheel

1.Read instructions that come with the steering wheel, and gather the following tools: screwdriver, pliers and a puller.
2.Point wheels straight ahead.
3.Disconnect battery or pull horn fuse before removing the old wheel. This prevents the horn from shorting out or blowing during installation.
4.Remove the horn mechanism by doing one or more of the following steps: Press down on the horn cap or ring and turn; remove the emblem cap from its snapped-in position by grabbing it and pulling it toward you or prying it loose; or if the horn ring is secured by screws that are concealed in the rear side of the wheel spokes, use a screwdriver to remove the screws and the ring.
5.Remove horn wire or spring-loaded metal plunger from plastic housing by either pulling straight out on the metal plunger or, on most models, by twisting the plastic sleeve to the left and then pulling out. Cut the wire off the plastic sleeve and keep the sleeve for later use.
6.Remove the shaft-nut retainer clip, if it is present, and keep for later use. Remove the shaft nut, which holds the wheel to the shaft.
7.Mark the shaft at the twelve o'clock position so that you will know where to position the top of the new wheel.
8.Insert a conventional puller into the two tapped holes which appear in the hub of the old wheel and pull off the steering shaft.
9.Remove the original wheel.

Installing the New Steering Wheel

1.Place the small tubular metal sleeve down over the steering shaft.
2.Position hub on splined shaft, making certain that the shaft is properly positioned using the mark you made in step 7. You may have to rotate the plastic horn contact tube slightly to align it with the appropriate hole through the hub.
3.Insert plastic sleeve and spring from step 5 without wire into plastic horn housing. If the plastic sleeve extends above the top bolt surface of the custom hub, cut down the sleeve so that it is 1/8-inch below the top of the hub. Remove sleeve.
4.Insert through the plastic sleeve the wire lead that was supplied in the wheel kit. One end will not pass through the sleeve. This bell-shaped end will go into the horn contact housing. Insert the sleeve and wire into the housing and lock into position.
5.Route wire around the hub from the ten o'clock position to about the two o'clock position to properly align wheel. Position post cover and wheel on hub. Make certain that the wire lead passes through the appropriate holes in the two o'clock position. Using the three shoulder bolts provided, fasten the hub, post cover and wheel together, but do not tighten.
6.Check wheel for proper positioning. If correct, reinstall the shaft nut from step 6 and tighten. Reinstall shaft-nut retainer clip. If the retainer does not fit into the groove on the shaft, tighten the nut until it will fit as originally located.
7.Remove shoulder bolts and reinstall them through the retainer ring with the fiber side toward you. Tighten the shoulder bolts with caution - excess torque will result in damage to the hub. The shaft nut, if correctly tightened, will firmly hold the hub and wheel assembly on the shaft.
8.Connect wire lead to the connector on the retainer ring. Position spring on center nut. Align the dimples of the horn cap with reliefs in fiber material and push into the dimples past the fiber. Turn cap left or right until tight.
9.Reconnect battery or replace fuse.

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