Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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I cleaned out the pump .there was a penny and pieces of a carpenters pencil.I tried the washer again, the water came in the washer, the door locked after about 5 seconds the code f 11 came on, beeping started , the washer didnt start. I had the washer set on rince and spin. I cheched the pump impellor .no damage

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  • cefford Jan 03, 2011

    Did checks as requested, the water came in the washer,door locked washer did not start, f 11 code came back on and beeping sounded

  • cefford Jan 03, 2011

    update. When i select no spin the pump work,do that mean there is a problem with the motor?

  • cefford Jan 06, 2011

    I ended by calling a repair man , he told me the problem just by the what I told him. He really knew what he was talking about. All together it cost me a little over $600.00.I will call him the future if I have problems.



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The f11 code means

Serial Communication Error Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

Here is what to look at.

  • Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
  • Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
  • Check MCU
  • Check CCU
  • Check Motor
  • Check Wire Harness
  • Posted on Jan 04, 2011

    • Jyackle5
      Jyackle5 Jan 07, 2011

      Glad you got it fixed sorry you needed to call a repair man


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    Fl i a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:

    1. Unplug the washer.
    2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
    3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.

    After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:

    Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.

    If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:

    1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
    2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
    3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
    4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
    5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
    6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
    7. Remove wire connectors.
    8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
    9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
    10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.

    Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.

    Posted on Jan 03, 2011

    • nikos pappas Jan 03, 2011

      I m sorry to hear that

      Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive
      Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact.
      Check for any broken wires or connector pins.



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