Question about Thermal Engineering Corporation Welding Tools

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My Thermal Arc 150GTS has plenty of voltage at the tip but VERY low current. What tests should I perform to isolate the problem? I am a mostly retired electronic engineer with an array of test equipment.

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  • Lowell Schultz Jan 05, 2011

    Thank you for your guidance on welding procedures. My real question is "How do I repair this failed welder?" You suggested possibly a bad rectifier. Which one... the AC input rectifier or the high frequency rectifier? How can I identify and test those?

    My believe the problem is in the current control circuit. I have verified that the current control potentiometer is good. What I NEED is the schematic and parts layout for my Thermal Arc 150GTS as a guide for getting down into the machine to trouble shoot it.

    Can you give me advice on that, please?

    Or could you direct me to an 'expert' that has experience in repairing DC inverter welders?



    Thank you. handyman10

  • Lowell Schultz Jan 16, 2011

    That solution was compleat with recommendations on the welding procedure. Thank you to the FixYa team.

    Handyman

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Sorry we can not help you with your problem at this time.

Posted on Jan 15, 2011

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Welding troubleshooting


You could pass voltage but no welding current if the current carrying cable inside the mig gun has a break in it. Inside the mig gun is a braided copper current passing cable, if it only has a few strands of wire to complete the circuit it will not pass weld current.They usually break where the mig gun has been flexed over time.

Aug 01, 2014 | Welding Tools

Tip

How to test your AC/DC Adapter or Computer Power Supply Unit.


A PSU or Power Supply Unit aka AC/DC adpater is then means by which a low tension (voltage) appliance receives its power from the 240 AV mains supply, the this is usually accompanied by the nominal current that is drawn from the PSU on load in milliamps. (e.g. 500mAmps = 0.5 Amps) most modern DC adapters are unregulated, where the output voltage is only regulated by the load current, and a smoothing Capacitor is sometimes used to reduce AC ripple on the DC Level.
If the PSU is regulated the DC Voltage that you measure using an AVO even off load will be the same as the rated current.

Also most, not all, are double insulated (indicated by small square inside a larger one) this means that it doesn't need a earth on the plug, the give away is a plastic pin instead of a metal one found in most domestic plugs with a 13A fuse.

Using Ohms Law P= I x V means that we can find out either the Current in Amps Power in Watts or the Voltage of any unit this is also called the VA rating

The Simple test is if the adapter gets really hot as soon as the you apply AC power then this may indicate catastrophic failure OR a dead short and you must turn OFF immediately the plastic may even start to melt, you may also smell electrical burning. This will also happen if you ever use a non-specific adapter on your device that has a different output voltage this will almost certianly cause damage to your device.

The main test if to test the step-down transformer using an AVO (Amps Volts Ohms) this is what is used to reduce the 240V ~AC voltage to something more in line with the required DC supply say 14-16V ~AC, a diode bridge converts this to DC, if it is regualted there will be either and either a zener or resistor drops this to the rated 12V and a capacitor to smooth the level.
You need to make sure this is socket is working correctly by checking with either a lamp electricians screw driver or a AC test plug, dont use this socket you have an earth fault or someother problem, usually two lines at the outside of a AC socket tester means all is correct.
  1. First measure the resistance (Ohms) across the two AC pins that is the Live and Neutral this should have VERY low resistance in the range 300 to 2,000 (2K) Ohms. if this is the case then your primary winding is probably OK if you see 1 on all settings this means open circuit (O/C)
  2. Then connect the power supply to a 240V AC socket, and check the output voltage with multimeter set at volts DC you should see a stable voltage of the rated value for a regulated adapter or slightly higher by about 5% if its unregulated as this is a reading off load, if you were able to test the voltage with the adapter on load you would see the rated DC voltage.
  3. If you connect an unregulated AC/DC adapter to the device and open up the cover to test it under load and the voltage is low around 5V or less then the adapter will need replacing even if the off load value appears correct in above test ( ** ref the table below)
NOTE: If you have a AC only output then the test done in 1 can also be done, if there is a diode bridge, Zener Dicde OR Capacitor on the secondary this test wont work so you might have to remove the cover by unscrewing the tamper-proof screws and test it before the connection to the PCB, without the power on of course, check out my tip HERE for help on how to remove the screws.

If you have a faulty power supply its usually the thermal fuse that blows on the secondary winding, this means that you will get considerably less Voltage at the output jack of around 5 VDC or less and falling if this is the case the transformer is faulty and will need to be replaced with one of the same step-down ratio. OR you will need a new AC/DC Adapter, check out this table for examples of the results that you might find.

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** The Amstrad Black PSU that reports 24V and 383 Ohms on the primary may still not deliver the rated voltage under load and therefore I have marked this as a false positive and therefore FAULTY.

NOTE: The AC/DC Chargers are constant current devices (the symbol is usually two interlocking circles and even though you can do similar tests on the transformer primary coil its the current that it delivers under load that is important the only way to test this is using a clamp meter on the cable to see the current under load this should match the rated current.

COMPUTER ATX PSU

Most ATX power supplies are known as switched mode can only be tested under load when connected to the PC motherboard this is a bit tricky using a plain old Fluke, AVO or Multimeter the best way is to buy dedicated PSU tester for the type of Power Unit you have, it will check the DC voltages in the range + 12V,-12V,+5V,+5VBs and +3.3V on both the SATA and IDE supply cables these cost about £20 ($35) you can test the unit in as little as 5 mins.

on May 11, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Zero heating performance


make this test and fix it. God bless you


  1. Check the power diodeThis electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
  2. High voltage capacitorResponsible for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave. Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires replacement.
  3. Damaged magnetronResponsible for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
  4. Thermal CutoffsExamine the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.
709a1f2c-f06b-4f8c-9cc2-d2d16f0b6f73.gif

Nov 19, 2013 | Haier Microwave Microwave Oven

1 Answer

WHEN I TRY STRIKE AN ARC WITH A ROD YOU HAVE TO HIT IT 5 OR 6 TIMES TO GET IT TO WELD ITS HARD TO KEEP IT GOING BUT AFTER 4 OR 5 SECONDS IT WILL BURN LIKE NORMAL (USING PROPER AMPERAGE)


Is this on new rods as well as one's you'be been already welding with? Depending on rod types, some will "flux over" the end, after welding insulating the tip. When you're welding at a low setting, with a small rod, sometimes it is hard to start an arc. A 7018 rod is a good example of this. Strike the rod like a woodden match, or drag it on the metal, to expose the rod. It also depends on your welder. Some have settings to help start an arc and then control the current. Older transformer welders arn't that smart and are less forgiving on low current thin metal settings.

Jul 02, 2010 | Lincoln Ranger 250 Gxt Welder Generator...

1 Answer

Wiper problem-93 Ford Ranger XLT,2 wheel drive,3.0 v-6.auto. Only have high speed,no more intermitent,no longer returns to start position-HELP


probably the motor but chaeck this first G3 CHECK CIRCUIT 58 FOR BATTERY VOLTAGE
  • Unplug wire harness connector.
  • Set wiper switch on low.
  • Check Circuit 58 for battery voltage key on.

    k17829a.gif

arrow.gifVoltage OK
CHECK for malfunctioning wiper motor. Perform low speed current draw test. SERVICE as required.
arrow.gifVoltage not OK
CHECK for:
  • Open connector.
  • Malfunctioning switch.
  • Malfunctioning governor.
  • Open wire Circuit 58 (W).

Jun 02, 2010 | 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

Plazma cutter/no arc


check pilot/output board

Sep 05, 2009 | Welding Tools

1 Answer

I cant stop the whine


Ok, if it only happens when the engine is running and the noise changes with the gas, that's alternator whine. Alternator whine is caused by the ambient noise in the voltage which is produced by the alternator. Alternators don't make DC current, they make AC current. The AC current is then converted to DC current and then sent to the rest of the car. The noise comes from an imperfect conversion from AC to DC. That noise travels down the power cable to the amp and causes noise in your speakers. This is often called "dirty power". Dirty power can be variations in voltage, inconsistent current, or noise within the voltage. One of the simplest ways to clean up noise in a car stereo system is to use capacitors. If you add a capacitor to your system just before the amplifier's power cable, it will help filter out the noise from the alternator. Start with 1/2 Farad or 1 Farad. That should be plenty to clean up the noise. The capacitors will also have a positive effect on your amplifier's thermal and sound performance, but you may not notice it.

May 14, 2009 | Performance Teknique ICBM-892 Car Audio...

1 Answer

Thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 2004 yr.


Check contacts in tip and be sure it is all lubed correctly. If you have good air pressure and flow it should arc after pulling the trigger for about 2-3 seconds.

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1 Answer

Heating element isn't working


Sounds like the heating element isn't getting current. If you have a continuity checker or ohm meter, test the element - isolated from the fan and/or switches. If that passes, look for a thermal fuse that looks like a 22-caliber bullet. See if it passes current. Then check the function of the switch, thermostat, and any safety cut-outs like tip-over switches.

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1 Answer

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If you are getting power on the neutral that usually means the neutral is open (broke). To confirm this check the voltage on your 2 hot leads. You may need to check the voltage when the oven is on. You may find high voltage on one leg and low voltage on the other. The high voltage would fry a fan (so would low voltage for that matter). I hope this helps. Sorry I don't know more.

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