How do I test the Electric current in the Lakewood Box Fan
Please Help.I have a Volt Meter that my husband uses, but I don't know how it works. Would you suggest in words and pictures how to test the fan. It totally doesn't work. I took off the plastic cages (front and back) and washed them with just water. I put these in the sun to dry. I have fixed other things, but need to know how to use a volt meter, and how to get this fan running in good running order. Thank you, Nancy
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: How do I test the Electric current in the Lakewood...
I haven't seen a single-function 'voltmeter' for a long time so I suspect it is a multimeter with volts (AC & DC), milliamperes and ohms functions, if not more.
The function you need is 'Ohms.'
This will have several settings and if it is as most low cost meters, it will have a '200' and a '2K' (or 2000) setting.
The range may be marked as 'Ohms' or might have the Greek letter symbol for this; Omega 'ω'
With the switch in the off position and measuring with the probes across the the AC prongs, you should get an overrange indication which will generally show as a '1' or '2' with no other digits and it may blink as well.
This should be the same as having nothing connected to the probes.
Connecting the two the two probes should display (depending on range setting) perhaps 00.2 to 00.6 on the lowest range and .000 on all other higher ranges.
Turning the switch to any running position should yield some kind of reading on the '200' or '2K' range.
If it doesn't, then either the switch or the motor itself is 'open' meaning that no voltage is reaching the motor.
Because of the low price of these breeze boxes, finding and buying either the switch or the motor is kind of futile; the switch, if you can find the typical 4-position type (Off, low, medium, high) will cost about half as much as a new fan, the motor likely more than the replacement fan complete.
Be advised that having the wrong setting and measuring across a voltage can cause the meter to fail forever. Don't (!) set the meter to ohms or milliamperes (ma) and try to measure any kind of voltage.
The AC Volts setting is what you need for checking your receptacles, DC Volts for checking batteries for example and the Ohms ranges will be mostly used for problems such as you are having and checking fuses to see if they are blown or not.
The milliampere ranges aren't much use for household stuff and normally are for DC current only.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
ok here is what I found....there should be screws on the outside rim where the two fan grates meet....then dust the innerds with a leaf blower or a rag, then use brake cleaner spray to soften the greasy dirt that formed, and again a rag to wipe away any residue....hope this works, it did for me
Lakewood is long out of business and a stock cord is going to be next to impossible to find. But I can help you save some money and some headaches trying to find a new cord.
If I remember right the 007 utilizes a simple two prong cord. The tip of the cord is simple the fatter end is your ground and the smaller end is the AC power feed. These fans don't draw to terribly much power either.
It is a rare occasion I would buy an original cord because they are so darn over priced. Here is what I would do.
Go to your local hardware store and get a cord with a two pron tip on it. This may cost $6 top. Just a medium use cord will work for this fan.
Now you will see the wires for the cord on the back of the fan motor. The hot wire is usually black (In the USA and Canada) The green wire is ground and the white wire is neural. (This is for a three wire setup. For two wire omit the white wire. The wires on your fan should be colored Black and Green. Just remember that black is the hot wire and the other is the ground.
To make this less difficult the black wire off the fan will go to the wire that leads to the small end of the connector and the other wire (ground) will go to the wire (on the new cord) that tracks to the thick en of the connector. Placing your new cored flat and even makes this easier.
You will need to soldier the ends (or crimp the wires together) and make sure you insulate them with liquid electric tape, shrink tube etc.
I searched for your solution. This is the closest I can find.
This is customer service for Lakewood.
Another solution if the above does not work. You could make a couple of feet from some wood as well.
I think you need to buy a new fan. Unless this thing cost several hundred dollars it isn't worth rewinding and a capacitor isn't likely to cause it to stop working, the cap is for STARTING it spinning anyway and sometimes they are used to HELP it run better, but it will try to run if you spin it and since your's does nothing, more than likely the windings are gone.
First of all, if this is an older fan there is no such thing as a neutral leg of anything since that all depends on how the plug is inserted into the AC outlet which determines polarity. From what you have described it is indeed a thermistor. With such an old fan what have you got to loose anyway, just jump the thing with a piece of wire and see what happens. If you have a partial short in the fan motor the motor will get hot quickly and you are not likely to find a replacement for that anyway. Sometimes a high voltage spike on the AC line can kill these thermistors even if everything is ok. As far as finding a replacement most electronic wharehouses should be able to help you find that exact part or an equivalent with the numbers given. But if you don't jump the thermistor and test the fan to be sure there is no problem with the motor then it would be pointless to try and find a new part that will just fail in seconds after installation. Test it by jumping it and see what happens...if you smell burning insulation soon after you know there is no point of going further., disconnect from the power and put out on the curb...see what I'm saying?
try cleaning it and put oil especially at the base of the shaft.then try wiggling the shaft for bushing tolerance.if you feel the shaft wiggles to wide, then you'll need to replace the bushing and the shaft.but before anything else check the thermal fuse.it is found on the motor itself or try to borrow a tester with resistance measurement to check for continuity of the winding by connecting the probes with the plug, one each terminal.then turn the fan on.the pointer should move if its ok, unless burn out.if not.then the thermal fuse blow-out.
you have 3 control wires (the 3 speeds) and a common wire. the common wire will go directly from the fan motor to the power source/cord and the other 3 leads will run through the switch. you could even use a standard dimmer-style lighting rheostat and connect it to the common and "high" fan speed wire and have infinitely variable fan speeds. hope that helps.
As the box fan is a simple electronic, I would take the fan apart and check the solder points. If one has broken loose or is cracked, simply re-solder the point. Test it and try again.
Another suggestion would be to go to your local hardware store and find some appropriate L-brackets to secure the fan to the sill while still maintaining the ability to remove it and close the window. A little human ingenuity can probably outsmart a cat. ;)