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Jennair wall oven - model W2720W installed oven as

Jennair wall oven - model W2720W installed oven as replacement unit. unit is in new condition, although in dry storage for several years. Used installation per instructions - white and ground wires tied together (unit being removed was wired the same way - also a Jenn-Air) on installation, only oven light, timer, and fan for certain modes seem to work. the temperature knob will not turn. not sure if it is frozen or just needs to be taken apart and cleaned....dont know how unit will not heat, but not sure if temp knob is associated with symptom

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Problems with Jenn-Air Electric Double-Wall Oven

Try changing the clock assembly --
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=221346&ModelNum=WW30430P&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=51238&Position=1&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=1

here is a link to the diagram.

PS120923
Electronic Clock Assembly (Series 10)
Help with series numbers


here is the part number.

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

  • 184 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air Gas Range SEG196 NO CLOCK/DISPLAY

THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THE BAD DISPLAY IS TO REPLACE THE CLOCK. I HAVE A JENN AIR OVEN TODAY AS A WORK ORDER TO REPLACE THE CLOCK FOR A FAILED DISPLAY.

FOR THE JGW8130DDB WITH NO POWER ANYWHERE, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A SUPPLY PROBLEM. MAKE SURE THE WIRING IS HOOKED UP WITH THE RED AND WHITE WIRES RECEIVING 240 VOLTS AND THE WHITE WIRE ATTACHED TO NEUTRAL / GROUND.IF THE OVEN HAS A BARE COPPER WIRE AND THE HOUSEHOLD WIRING ONLY HAS THREE WIRES, COMBINE THE WHITE WIRE AND THE COPPER WIRE TOGETHER AND ATTACH TO THE HOUSEHOLD NEUTRAL / GROUND .
UNLESS YOU ARE SURE ABOUT THE HOOKUP IN THE BREAKER/FUSE BOX, DO NOT GO SIMPLY BY THE COLOR OF THE WIRES.

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: panel light is out

There is a capacitor on the clock board labelled C3. It will probably have brown burns on it or "syrup" leaking around the base. You can buy a box of 10 of these for 75 cents at Radio Shack (make sure you match the label on the old capacitor, I think it's 58mf and 35V but I could be wrong) and a pencil soldering iron for $10. It's held on with 2 little wires. Before taking it off note capacitor orientation (where the blue +++ stripe is), the replacement has to go on the same way. Common problem and easy fix.

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: My clock and temperature display is dim

Hi, this will happen over a period of time and its just heat related. the control panel isn't insulated properly and , there has been a larger than normal transfer of heat to the inside of the control panel where the circuits are housed.

If this is a problem, i recommend replacing the control board. it will fix the dim issue.

Posted on May 22, 2009

dltatsjc
  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air JJW8530 LCD panel does not light up

BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the
design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.

TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to dltatsjc@aol.com and I’ll try to help.
Good luck.
Thanks for this site..

Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
http://picasaweb.google.com/dltatsjc/Photos?authkey=Gv1sRgCJPKv9CRgsXxNA

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

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