Question about Rinnai Water Heaters

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Pilot won't light and no hot water.Gas is on, power is on ,internal fuses are 100% ok, no burnt wiring or relay units,power point is 100% working also. when hot water tap is turned on the blow type motor inside unit goes for 2 seconds maximum only but no power is getting to the pilot gas ignition system. could it be a faulty starter module- the small black box that as like spark plug type lead to spark generator.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

muttandjeff
  • 359 Answers

SOURCE: rheem water heater pilot light goes out

REPLACING THE SPARK IGNITOR WOULD BE MY FIRST GUESS .

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tankless water heater pilot light will not stay on

It is most likely the water valve stuck open, telling the controls to heat water, that it thinks is flowing through it, but without actual flow it overheats. Depending on how comfortable you are with taking it apart yourself, you could open the valve to see if it just needs cleaned out, or if you have a ruptured diaphragm or some other cause.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem 40 gallon gas hot water heater, pilot light

To make a short story long (I need to include all details, sry)…

I got up one morning and realized that we did not have hot water. I re-lit the pilot light and as soon as the burner went out from heating the water up, the pilot light would go out. After reading several posts regarding this issue, it seemed apparent that the thermo-coupler was the problem. Since I am a little bit handy around the house and very tight when it comes to opening my wallet, I bought the device from Lowe’s ($8.98) that was recommended by my online advisors and after a few googles, figured out how to change it. No help. The pilot light still goes out.

I gave up and went to Home Depot to purchase and schedule the installation of a new hot water heater.

STICKER SHOCK

A new Direct Vent type water heater costs around $800 with an additional $450 for “special” installation. Add a few fees to that and the grand total came to about $1450.

I felt like I had no choice since my wife and 2 daughters refused to live their life without hot water and I had no clue about how to fix the dam thing.

The plumber assigned to the installation stopped by to evaluate the site conditions and quickly noted to me that the 8 year old water heater tank was in good condition and that the gas controller was probably faulty, which could be purchased online from the manufacturer. I quickly cancelled the Home Depot order and purchased the controller for about $120 after shipping and tax. Immediately after the installation it seemed that the problem had been solved. A few days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and explained the situation and he recommended that I purchase another controller because the one that was shipped to me was probably bad. I searched around town and found a plumbing supply company that had the correct model in stock. Two days later the pilot light was out. I cleaned up the controller and returned it to the store and asked the plumber to please schedule a visit to repair this dam thing.

When the plumber arrived, he hooked up a gauge in several locations and confirmed that the correct amount of gas (cfm) was being delivered to the controller, pilot light and burner. He then proceeded to remove the fire box to make sure that the igniter, thermo-coupler and pilot tip were set properly. He inspected the pilot light tip and said that he found the problem. Using about a 1/64” tip drill (can be purchased at a welding supply store), he cleaned the tiny hole that releases gas to the pilot light. I felt a sigh of relief because I was certain that the problem had been solved. $65 dollars (plumber’s fee for an hour of work) and 4 days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and he said that the controller that I purchased online must be bad. Too embarrassed to return to the first plumbing supply store, I found another one in a different town that had the correct model in stock. Three days after changing the controller the pilot light went out. I returned the controller and a six pack later I decided to do some extensive googling.

The key term here is “DIRECT VENT”. This seems to be a very common problem with direct vent water heaters and I was about to find out the reason for this phenomenon. I read a post by an individual who wrote that if the vent becomes detached that the inflow of air can become contaminated and extinguish the pilot light. I decided that before I spent any more money on a plumber that I was going to take the vent apart and find out what makes it tick.

My direct vent system has 2 parts to the venting, an inner pipe (3” nominal diameter) that serves as the exhaust and the outer pipe (5” nominal diameter) that serves as the internal flow of air which supplies the pilot light and burner with oxygen. On the outside of the house a vent hood helps to segregate the two by extending the exhaust about 3” beyond the intake. I looked into the hood at the end of the pipes and discovered that the internal pipe which consisted of a 2 piece slip joint had come loose from the elbow that sets on top of the water heater. This slip joint pipe was not attached at any point with screws or clamps and was loosely setting over the elbow on one end and into the hood on the other end, allowing it to detach. Apparently, when atmospheric conditions were right, the burner idled down from heating up the water and extinguished the pilot light because the intake was saturated with CO2 from the connection failure.

I purchased a section of 3” pipe that was long enough to be installed in one piece. I connected it to the elbow using a stainless steel hose clamp. I had to disassemble the pipe 3 times to make adjustments to the length and position before I got it right, but I should not have any more problems with the pilot light.

The problem here is time. It takes a lot of time to get this right. When the plumbing contractors installed this unit during the construction of the house, there was no one around to make sure that they got it right. It is probably common to use a 2 piece slip joint type connection, but I feel like it should be attached with screws or clamps. In my opinion it is not rigid enough and can detach easily, especially if it is not installed properly. A one piece connection that is attached at one end with a hose clamp and then held in place at the other end by the hood is fool proof.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: i have a richmond gas hot water heater model

resetting your lock out for richmond power vent

Posted on Nov 26, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE gas water heater lights for only a few seconds.

Called GE and there is a glass vile under the burner that is defective and cuts off the oxygen.
They are mailing out a replacement to my house & have contracted a plumber to install. waiting 4 days now. They say that the glass vile incinerates and there is not any thing left to it. The burner area is full of black soot. will post again one fixed.

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

Testimonial: "This is an accurate description of my own follow up. That device, a TRD, was the indeed the problem. "

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Still can't find where you light the pilot light for the hot water heater on a self igniting factory installed heater on a 1997 Pace Arrow.


Generally, if a RV water heater is self igniting, then it is not designed to be lit manually. If you remove the outside vent cover door, then the unit can be observed. The self igniter should be visible at a point of where the pilot light is located. The problem with trying to light the water heater manually is that the circuit that activates the igniter also turns on the gas at the same time. If the igniter is not getting power, then most likely the valve to turn on the gas is not getting power either. If the problem is that the igniter itself has failed, then it may be possible, but unlikely, that with someone inside activating the turn on switch and a flame being applied to the pilot light area, at the same time, the pilot may light.

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Reliance water heater?
Thermocouple is good if the pilot stays lit continuously.

501 is older model. Unknown if this unit has FVIR protection and sealed combustion chamber or open air intake on front of unit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Reliance-2006-Service-Handbook.pdf

With FVIR protection:
Get more fresh air to the unit.
Clean the flame arrestor screen.
Test and replace the thermocouple:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-thermocouple.html
Inspect and clean burner and combustion parts
Test gas pressure, bleed air out of gas line.
Replace gas control valve.
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Water heater pilot light is out, cant restart intelli vent controller


Possibly the air intake located at bottom of heater needs to be cleaned with feather duster under water heater.
Read your product manual for steps.
Copy following link for general illustration.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/State-select-air-intake-400.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Flame-Arrestor-Screen-Cleaning.pdf
Other causes can be bad intellivent gas control valve, poor venting, hot attic, low gas pressure, dirty combustion parts, tripped FV system.
Copy following link for available intellivent troubleshoot resources:
The service manuals are large files and open slowly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

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If pilot lights and flame is robust and clear blue, and pilot goes out later, then some suspects can be excluded: air in gas line, low gas pressure, thermocouple is overtightened (finger-tight + 1/4 turn), thermocouple not positioned correctly in the flame, dirty pilot tube.
If flame is yellowish and small: then clean pilot tube and combustion parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html#clean
Remaining suspects can include: air in gas line, low gas pressure, bad gas control valve, tight house so household vent fans pull air down water heater vent that blows out pilot, hot attic with inadequate ventilation, water dripping down vent.

Open following links to read troubleshoot resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Pilot-light-will-not-stay-lit.pdf
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Aug 16, 2011 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

No hot water coming out. ignition comes on ,but no lighting of gas. There is gas in bottle and it's on as normal.Works one day , doesn't the next.I cannot remember if there was a pilot light before!


check for pilot but im sure that the pilot is on demand thats what makes these things so cool and inexpensive to operate. try having someone turn on the hot water while looking for ignition. if there is nothing it may be a relay. im not sure but if you open it up check for a 3 amp fuse its green. all the new furnaces with mother boards have a fuse. I am not really a heating guy but i have been looking into on demand systems and sat in a training session at the plumbing supply. never hurts to try and help.
if its not a fuse or the ingniter isnt functioning you may need to call a heating person who knows on demand or check Bosch on line maybe they have the trouble shooting guide if you dont.

sorry that all i can suggest hope it helps

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I have a Bosch GWH 425 HN Tankless Hot Water Heater...On 2/28/2010, it began intermittant exploding when demand for hot water occurred. Local technicians worked on the unit several times, changed and...


I have the same problem with the same model. The problem has been identified by a friend of mine, correctly, I think.
This is a very dangerous problem involving Bosch's much touted safety feature, ironically enough. IT IS THE FLAME SENSOR IN THE GAS VALVE. The flame sensor is supposed to confirm that the pilot has lighted BEFORE the main gas line sends gas to the main burners, after which the pilot shuts off. The pilot light is not coming on, the sensor that shouldn't let gas fto the main burners is failing and the main gas is flowing and ignighting from the spark that is supposed to light only the pilot in a big explosion.
This is the 2nd unit of this model that has failed. I think Bosch should do a recall

Apr 25, 2010 | Bosch & Tankless LP Hot Water Heater

2 Answers

Pilot light will not automatically light when hot water is turned on


This is a great unit! Try turning the flow nob to the half way point and the flame all the way to low. Run the hot water tap and slowly turn the flame dial until you hear the unit try to light. Every house is different regarding the restrictions in the plumbing and water pressure. Once the unit tries to light that is your minimum setting. It is best to leave it there.

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