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Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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My baxi combi 100 he plus keeps losing pressure cant find a leak anywhere inside but some water coming outside from expansion pipe?

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  • Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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If you are having a small amount of water loss thru t&p valve then the valve may just be getting old and need relaced,If yours is a typical valve there will be a small handle in the center on the valve face. Open this valve by pulling straight back on handle end. If it's too hard to open dom' t force it. If you can open it then do so 4-5 times in a hurry ad when it closes tap on on the center of valve where the pivot point for valve handle is. Just tap it lightly and see if the leak slows down or stops. If so I would go ahead and replace the valve. Thank you

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Hi There, I have an Ideal Response 120 Combi Boiler. Each day the water pressure falls to 0 on the pressure gauge. In order to get hot water and Cental Heating I increase the pressure to 1.5. The Hot water...

I have the same boiler with a similar issue. The water is more than likley leaving the system from the pressure relief valve, which will be routed outside. It sounds like you have lost the pressure in your expansion tank, which is inside the boiler. With the boiler pressure at zero and the power isolated, the expansion tank can be accessed from a panel at the top of the boiler on the right hand side. You will see a valve on the red expansion vessel like the one on a car tyre and can be pressurised with a car tyre air pump. I think from the manual the pressure should be about 1 bar, but it depends on the length of pipework on your system. A competent boiler engineer should be able to sort this out, but it may be that your valve is leaking, or the expansion vessel has failed and the problem will occur again.
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Combi Boiler pressure gauge reading 0, and radiator half on!

The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).

Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.

This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.

The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).

A.
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Boiler loosing pressur

generally preesure problems are caused by the following- obviously a leak, bleeding of rads without topping up the pressure, pressure relief valve passing( probably an integral part to the boiler), or potentially a problem with the expansion vesell.
the expansion vessel is a tank which
holds water and air- it should be pressurised with air by about 10 psi or up to 1bar, if the diaphragm has split this ill cause pressure problems all day long

hope this info helps
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