Question about GE 15.7 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Top-Mount Refrigerator - White-on-White

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Model number of my GA fridge is GRT11AAPAPWW A loud 'burring' type sound was emanating from the back of the fridge and the freezer was starting to gain temperature. I adjusted the colling know away from the 'Coolest' setting and that shut off the loud 'burring' sound and the freezer started to lose temperature again. Two days later there is still no burring sound however the freezer is gaining temp and the stuff in there now has defrosted. Can you advise if this is a fixable problem ?

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SOURCE: GE PCG23NHMF side by side fridge freezer - stopped cooling

Although this machine is supposed to be frost-free (i.e. automatic defrost), there was a build up of frost. We manually defrosted the machine, then restarted it - the noise has stopped and the freezer and fridge are now working. However, this may be a temporary solution.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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SOURCE: Evaporator freezing up, refer side.

There is a blanket type of heater stuck on the wall behind the coils.  However,  my tech guy checked the heater in our fridge, and he said it was ok.  The problem seems to be that the sensors and main circuit board do not turn the heater on - this is an inherent design flaw, and may not be able to be fixed.  There are 100 complaints about this this on consumeraffairs.com (usa),  and tons more in England.   This a very large problem which Samsung does not want to address, probably because of cost.  I'm seriously thinking about taking them to small claims court.

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Posted on Apr 12, 2010

aasc
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SOURCE: fridge broken, freezer is temp. that fridge should

Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .

Posted on Jun 27, 2010

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