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Hello Experts I have bought a used versamatic e2hp pump and experienced regular performance problems, mainly stalling. I use the pump to charge a filterpress at 150psi fluid pressure. I have installed a newish screw compressor with water filters at the compressor and another at the pump. I have installed an oiler at the pump. The air supply is a 0.5 inch line with regulator and isolating valve. The isolating valve is generally used to restrict the flow pumping rate - following advice from our serviceman that this would prevent cavitating. The clay slurry is at about 1400g/L and very fluid. The supply tank level is abov ethe pump and the feed is drawn through a short (2m) 25mm pipe and two permanent magnetic separators. The same format that was successfully used for years by the previous owner. The delivery to the filterpress is also through a 25mm flrxible hose. When the pump works it delivers excellent results. Frequent stalling has made the pump almost useless. Sometimes we are able to overcome stalling by applying lube, grease or tapping the air valve but these are unreliable methods. Any suggestions will be gratefully received. Paul Pepworth Decopot New Zealand

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Range loosing pressure at burners - oven won't come to temp

If you are still under warranty, and have "lemon laws"... repaired three times in the warranty period for the same problem... they have to replace the stove. We all need to get Kitchenaid to start replacing these ranges over and over, maybe then they will address the issue. Clean, baby clean... you paid extra for a self clean oven, hold Kitchenaid accountable!

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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SOURCE: Need to lower 1750 psi to 300 psi on my portable power washer.

Don't starve the inlet to the pump. It will detroy it.
Buy a pressure regulating valve and plumb it in line per the instructions. Do not use a relief valve because you will have to have a return line or you will heat the water up on the inlet side of the pump depending on how the pressure washer is set up. It should already have a safety relief valve. You might look and also find a pressure regulator that is adjustable and all you problems will be solved.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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SOURCE: Oven won't light unles you tap on bottom parts.

This might be grit or ash that might have found it's into the burner. When the gas flows into the burner has enough velocity to pick up and carry small debris to the inside of the openings in the burner. When you tap it the debris falls from the holes and gas can flow again. If you are on propane, it is common to have grit in the lines. Natural is less likely to have grit unless you have had construction nearby. Finally, does this system use a flame sense probe? If yes the sense probe might also be dirty and need to be wiped with steel wool (soap free)

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

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SOURCE: The water level switch on our GE washer is intermittent.

The only other thing I would do is to be sure the tube is sealed good where it hooks and doesn't have a tiny hole and take it off and blow through it To make sure it's clear.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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SOURCE: Was working normal suddenly will not build pressure

Maurader1 an apprentice has this problem solved and is spot on. All these gurus and wiz need to stick to the basic and common sense. The first place your pump will give out after use or abuse is the gasket. All this garbage about defective reeds and defective pressure switch is a lot of nonesense if you first don't rule out the most common problem the head gasket. I'm cheap and this thing has paid for itself 10 time over. You can get a gasket kit for $7, but I fabricated a gasket out of the back of my notebook and sprayed some gasket spray and been working like a charm ever since.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

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Here is an easy way to zero in on a stalling problem.
If it feels like someone reached over and turned off the key and it fires back up right away it's the injection pump.
If the same thing happens but it has to cool down before restarting it's the PMD / FSD(pump mounted driver).
If it stumbles and than stalls then it is air in the fuel lines. If it is this one try switching fuel tanks and just turn the key to run but don't start the engine. Listen to the fuel pump for a change of noise pitch. The pump is really loud when the pump is out of fuel and will have a muffled sound when pulling fuel. Sometimes the baffle in the main tank will brake away from the tank and the pump will suck air when the tank is just off full.
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Hello there :
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owners manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least is dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service. Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations which are not affiliated with one brand of gas tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
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I would clean the throttle body before spending more money on finding a solution. Carbon build can cause stalling or idling issues at low speeds.
So cleaning it is pretty easy and cheap. You can use an old toothbrush and dip it in some gas or use aerosol throttle body cleaner. When you've loosened up the buildup just wipe it off with a rag that doesnt rip easily.
You can get to the throttle body by disconnecting the intake tube that starts from the air filter.

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