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Ice maker will not make ice. Ice water yes, ice no.

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  • LG Master
  • 6,993 Answers

Hello,

Investigate each of these two areas if your ice-maker is not making ice;


1. Water Inlet Valve
2. Defrost Thermostat

Water Inlet Valve: Your ice maker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.

An ice maker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.

Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.


Follow the below directions to test your water inlet valve;


Before you begin to test your ice maker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.


Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.

  1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.


  2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.


  3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.


  4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.


  6. If the test you conduct with your ice maker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
Defrost Thermostat ;

It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. Or your ice maker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.


Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat;



Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.

  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.


  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.


  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.


  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.
Follow the above closely and I believe it should guide you in solving the problem;

I hope this helps.

Good luck.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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SOURCE: Ice maker not working

I replaced both silinoids and the ice maker. The ice maker will freeze water but not fill with water. My refridgeratoor is an a Amana

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ice maker

I am having the same problem with mine.

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: Ice Maker not Getting Water

There are two solenoid-operated water valves - one for the water dispenser and one for the icemaker. They're located near the water connection at the back of the fridge. There is no pump; the water pressure sends water to the icemaker whenever this valve is opened by the icemaker controls. Your symptoms sound like the coil is burned out on the valve. You can check it by disconnecting the wires and checking for coil continuity with an ohmeter. If the coil is open, replace the valve. Both valves might be combined into one assembly, so be sure you test both coils. Of course it's also possible that the trouble is in the icemaker itself, but a failed intake valve is more likely.

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

  • 3741 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker not making ice. do have water, no ice

The ice maker has a problem The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:

The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

The ice maker is producing ice poorly When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.

First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker stopped working

Good day,
A step by step procedure should resolve your problem. If the dispenser is working, you can skip that step.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Posted on May 25, 2010

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