Hi.
The float switch is not a water level switch, but an overfill switch. The control board uses the input from the pressure sensor to decide when to stop the pump.
When you open the float switch circuit the machine 'thinks' that there is overfill and starts the pump. Door must be closed and othe conditions met.
The pressure sensor is sometimes difficult to test and gets replaced straight away. The part is not expensive.
You mentioned that you left a little bit of water inside the tub. Perform again testing with no water. A little bit of water may be detected wrongly by a malfunctioning pressure sensor. Ensure power is not connected if not necessary and ensure that you did a power reset by disconnecting appliance for a couple of minutes. Clean thoroughly the drain well and remove water from inside the tub completely.
At the end of the cycle this machines also check dryness and temperature. Check also dryness (humidity)sensor and thermostat.
Regards.
Ginko.
Hi.
The overfill switch does not normally cause this problem. The overfill (float)
switch is otherwise tested by running a controlled cycle (to avoid
overfill) with float switch jumped.
The pressure sensor is located at the base of the tub, usually near to the drain well.
The pressure sensor is difficult to test with a multimeter. The part has two cut off that will open the circuit alternatively for low and high pressure. This are connected to three (or four) contacts. Ohms must be read in different pressure conditions. The PS is usually not tested using a multi-meter, but troubleshooting.
If the cycle continues with drying check also the humidity sensor located in the blower fan housing.
Here the how pressure sensor looks like.
If the appliance does not stop draining, check also that the inlet valve is not stuck open and filling all the time. The inlet valve is the water control valve connected to inlet hose. If this is leaking badly inside the tub, or if this is stuck open you get the tub filling all the time. water is detected by pressure switch and cycle does not stop draining. This would also explain the little bit of water at the bottom of the tub.
Also ensure that you have done the reset below:
Total reset
To reset the machine to its basic settings.
Fill the machine with appr. 1 litre of water!
1. Turn off the main switch (I/0)
2. Wait for at least 5 seconds
3. Keep the Programme button depressed (S1)
4. Turn on the main switch (I/0)
5. Release the Programme button (S1).
Hi.
RE:But would a broken pressure sensor make it run the circulation pump, or the drain pump?
Answer is yes. The electronic module starts the pump (or keep running) when water is detected by the pressure sensor in several parts of the cycle. At end of the cycle the pump is kept alive until the pressure sensor detects no water for several seconds.
Faulty PS is a possible cause for pump not stopping. Check also that inlet water valve is not leaking inside the tub or stuck open. In that case the pump will keep running because water keeps filling all the time. The only other situations when pump drains all the time at cycle end are because of electronic or wiring problem.
Hi.
If you disconnect the switch the machine won't cycle. You get pressure switch fault because impedance/voltage from pressure sensor is wrong.
Before replacing the pressure switch clean it, and try blowing into it.
Check also that you do not have syphoning because water from drain hose is flowing back into drain. That also causes drain pump not stopping.
In short:
If drain pump does not stop:
Check overfill (float) switch. Test reading that switch opens and closes or jump it.
Ensure there is no inlet stuck open.
Check the drain hose position and check drain system.
Replace pressure switch.
Test pump and wiring and eventually replace central control module.
The impeller pump is just timed by the timer board. Timer board turns it on and off at determined times. In that case the timer is probably shot. Check that there is no problem in wiring.
This machine has also a lot of electronic. Check in the service manual if in some case the turbidity sensor may cause control starting the pump (I don't think so). I think the electronic control is shot. This is no common fault by the way.
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You mean the circulation pump, or could the drain pump cause this? Thanks.
Thank you for the information. I understand what the float switch does, I just was making it clear that it wasn't faulty as that's a solution I've seen before.
Where should I look for the pressure sensor? Is there any way to test it with a digital multi-meter? Also, I removed ALL the water I could without turning the thing totally upside-down (which would be difficult to say the least).
I'll check out the humidity sensor when I get home. Also, I took apart the control panel down to the PCB and there was some corrosion on the thermostat and internal light connectors. I was able to clean off the connector for the light, but the thermostat connector was pretty damaged. I attempted to resolder it, and I think the the connector should now work, but can't be sure. Would an invalid temperature reading cause the circ pump to run?
Thanks for all your help.
But would a broken pressure sensor make it run the circulation pump, or the drain pump? Thanks for all the information.
Thanks for the confirmation. I will look into getting a new pressure sensor, but before I do, I have one question. Since it's $80 for a pressure sensor, I'd like to do everything I can to make sure that's it before I buy it. Do you know if disconnecting the pressure sensor from the control board make it register as "low pressure" or "high pressure?" If it makes it go to "low pressure," would it be valid to think that if the circ pump keeps running with the pressure sensor disconnected, it's not a problem with the pressure sensor?
FYI, I know that it's not a problem with the inlet valve, because it's not hooked up to a water supply and it's not trying to pump any water out, just recirculate it ;-)
I'm not sure I'm being clear. The drain pump works as it's supposed to. It's the circulating pump that keeps running.
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