David8 - Great solution, I did exactly as you stated, right down to the 470uF, 35V 85C caps from Radio Shack. I changed all 6 caps and the monitor now works like a charm. I saved $190 I didn't want to spend right now. The fix took about an hour total, from opening the monitor to turning it back on.
My question is, what capacitor life expectancy should I expect to see by going to a higher voltage rating, but a lower temperature rating?
Re: david8 - Capacitor change was perfect solution
I'm not a 100% sure on how long it will last you, but I doubt your monitor will go over 185F degrees even while running all day and since it's a higher voltage it wont get blown as easily. I only changed mine a few weeks ago, but some other guy who did the same said he's has been working for like a year now without any problems. I think they'll last longer than the originals.
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Thanks to the help on this forum, I was able to fix my DRC8335 power supply. C226 was the problem, went to Radio Shack and found the 470uf 35V replacement. It came up and worked like a charm after soldering it in. (See the picture of the cap on the board). It was just slightly swollen when viewed from the top but when i removed it, the bottom was really distorted. Thanks to micro065 and Mike Powell
I just did this capacitor replacement today after reading these posts. It worked great! I used 470uF
35volt caps from radio shack. There are three 470uF caps two right next to each other and one off by itself on the printed circuit board. The values are easily seen on the side of the capacitors. Open the monitor by removing the screws and prying the halves apart using a large straight edge screwdriver. There is a metal cover over the printed circuit board that will come loose after removing screws around its edge. There are several wire sockets that must be unplugged to allow the circuit board to be flipped over to reveal the capacitors. The board itself is held down with three screws
Once you identify the capacitors, use a fine tipped soldering pencil to melt the solder holding the capacitors in place and remove them. Position the new caps with the dark stripe matching up to the lined marks on the board, carefully apply just enough solder to each terminal to hold the caps in place. Reassemble and you're done.
Confirmation:Lee2fixit's solution also worked on a Sanyo 19" TV Model DS19580with 'buzzing relay'.Chassis carriessimilar relay (Type DG1U 12VDC II TV-5 8A 250V~ also by DEC) at location RL601and a 25VDC 470uF electrolytic cap at C622.After confirming the relay was sound and finding no obviously faultedcomponents tied to it, replaced the cap.Bingo, normal operation and a quiet relay.Will post a follow-up ONLY if the fix failsbefore the rest of the TV ..it's almost10 years old after all.Thank youLee2fixit and FixIt.com.
There are 3 capacitors on the the mother board that blow. You need to completely disassemble the unit down to the main board. The main board in held in place by 3 screws, then needs to slide to the left to free it from the case. Carefully pry it to the left using a flat blade screwdriver.
The capacitors are underrated for this board, and I use a capacitor with a higher voltage rating to replace them. You can get these from Radio Shack, P/N 272-1030, 470uF 35V.
The ones that usually blow are the 3 on the bottom left of the main board. They are in a vertical row, and you can see that the top of the capacitors "puff" and have a little dome on top of the capacitor.
Replace the capacitors, and reassemble. The 35V rated ones are just a little bigger and you may not be able to push them down to the board all the way, but no worries, it will fix your problem. We are a dealer for this product and found that every one that we install, failed with the same problem.
I should mention that there is another capacitor just to the right of these 3 that may also fail. Again, look for the top of the capacitor. If it is not perfectly flat, change it.
We had a power surge and my VL2018W LCD monitor stopped working... blank screen and flashing blue light.
I carefully opened up the back and found the power board (the one the AC plug goes into). There were about 5 electrolytic capacitors that were bulging (but not ruptured). There were 3 with the values listed by the original poster (470uF @ 25V) and 2 with 1000uF @ 10V.
I scrounged a couple of 2200uF@10V caps for the last two and bought 3 470uF @ 35V caps from Radio Shack (P/N 272-1030).
Luckily, the monitor came right back up and seems to be OK. It was out of warranty, so there wasn't a big risk.
Just increasing the working voltage won't do that much for you. If any caps are bad, just replacing them with the same value is good enough, but a higher working voltage won't hurt (usually means a bigger cap).
There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
This solution worked great for me. I can't believe it was only a samll little cap. Thanks a bunch for this.it saved me a bunch.
Its real easy to do if you're handy.
IMPORTANT Turn circuit breaker OFF first
Open oven door
From underneath control panel remove 4 white screws with philips screw driver
this holds white cover strip
remove 4 hex head screws which will loosen the panel.
remove panel and support it's weight as many wires are connected.
remove 2 small plugs on board - you may need a small screw driver to pry away the locking mechanisms on the socket
Remove riggon type flat cable by squeezing black tabs on eand and lift up.
The board can now be removed by unclipping 2 of the clips holding the board while lifting up.
Take board to Radio Shack and ask for a suitable replacement for the C3 cap which is 35 volts and 68uf (microfarads). Remove and replace by careful soldering.
If traces lift off oard use a wire to jumper trace
ensure the cap goes in the same polarity there is negative signs on one side.
You can parallel caps to add uf together.
Voltage should be not less than 35volt slightly higher is OK.