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Getting no heat just cold air - Samsung Dryers

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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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Blows cold air turn heat on


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I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla and heat on the left side and the right side is cold, what to do?


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1 Answer

The blower starts before its warm and it blows cold air for about 30 sec when its shutting down .


When any unit 1st come's on, you'll always have some cold air that's in the ducts that will blow out before you get warm air. If your duct work is uninsulated in a cold basement or crawl space then it will be even more noticeable. When the unit is heating from the Heat Pump mode, it takes a little longer for the gases to get warm enough so you'll fell heat. When it gets cold enough for the unit to switch from heat pump to the gas or electric heat source, you'll get warm air faster. If you have gas heat, some Thermostats have an anticipator setting for the gas valve. If it's set wrong it will effect the on/off cycle of the gas valve.
All duct work in non heated and a/c spaces, including inside walls,above dropped ceilings, in attics and crawl spaces, must be sealed & taped at the seams and joints and then insulated and taped.
Most new construction has solved that problem with insulated duct board, flexible insulated supply's and special tape.

Dec 12, 2013 | Rheem 13PJL30A01-RHLLHM3617JA 2.5 Ton 14...

1 Answer

My upstairs heating is blowing cold air. The air handler in the attic is running but no heat. Down stairs is fine, I get heat


Question: Is your heat produced by a furnace? (If so-- what kind of fuel?)
Or is heat produced by Air Conditioning nits working in reverse-- called Heat Pumps?

If Heat Pumps, You realize that when it gets very cold outside, there is not much 'heat' out ther, to get the heat from outside temperature, right?

Sometimes the out-door coils will freeze up, and you get even less heat then--

Please tell us more-- so we can take the clues you give us, and we'll trouble shoot the problems as best we can remotely, like this-

Mack B

Jan 26, 2011 | American Standard Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

REPLACED BOTH ELEMENTS GOT HOT WATER FOR 1 SHOW THEN IT GOT COOLER AND COOLER AND NOW ITS COLD ONLY?


Find a reputable HVAC contractor to do a room by room analysis with heat and cooling loads calculated and units sized and duct requirements and compare to what you have.

The air not being cold is not necessarily an indicator of anything malfunctioning. High efficiency units for instance don't produce cold air.

Since you have had someone look at it, the duct work may be collapsed which restricts air flow or uninsulated which warms up the supply air. Either one is a possibility. Any Cox Cable guys been stompin' around your attic lately? Wouldn't be the first time.

Usually, when the air coming out of the vents is not cold enuf it's because your freon level is low. Probably leaking, but they can usually recharge the freon and it will work for a while. Try another repair company and see if they can recheck the freon level.

We have a high efficiency unit and it produces cold air, so I don't know what previous poster is referring to. Air conditioners are supposed to blow cold air.

Sorry, to tell ya but it is normal if the outdoor temperatures are much below 45 degrees. Below 45 degrees there is little heat outdoors for the heat pump to grab to heat the home so it will run 24/7 and blow cool or cold air. Below 45 the temp of the air coming out the vent will decline and you will get no heat from the heat pump itself as you near freezing.

Your emergency heat or auxiliary heat is electric strip heat. But it only kicks in during normal operation if the temp in the house drops 3 degrees below the setting. (some tstats if can be 5 deg.) Otherwise the heat pump will blow cool or cold air the rest of the time if it is too cold out.

To prevent it from running all the time and blowing cold it is recommended if the temp outside is falling below 45 degrees you should just switch to the emergency heat setting, which shuts the pump outdoors off, and just heat with the electric.

But if there is no heat outside the heat pumps will blow cold. They are the cheapest and most efficient forms of heat but only as long as the outdoor temp is above that 45 deg..

I'm guessing that if you haven't experienced this you live in some place with moderate winter temperatures like in Northern Florida and rarely get very cold winter temps like the freezing you have seen there recently.

It will likely blow much warmer when the outdoor temp rises.


Aug 02, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Is it normal operation for these units to EVER blow out cold air or "nonheated" air when unit is in heat mode?


Yes. Heat pumps have to go into defrost just like a freezer when the temp gets too cold outside. The heat pump will temper the indoor air electric heat.

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HEY< this sounds like an electric furnace and some heating elements are not working! WHY! Just call 918-6878813 and see if KOOL BREEZES cAN HELP!

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probably the evaporator is not good,and also there is no gas in the the circuit and when it blow air its only heat is coming out

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the blendor actuators strip out the gear inside the actuator cases on these all the time. replace the actuator.

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1 Answer

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Did the fuse blow out? If so then the heating element is shorted out. This happens frequently when they fail. If the fuse is blown check the condition of or change out the heating element.

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