Question about Microwave Ovens
You cannot physically see the switch contacts, they must be measured for continuity.
I suggest a Microwave repair man would be a good idea at this point.
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Jul 19, 2012 | Sharp R-1481B Microwave Oven
Jun 19, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
May 08, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
I finally was able to fix similar problem. The "primary" door switch (top switch) had a burned contact inside the switch body, as well as burned surrounding plastic. It would no longer "click" and tended to stay in "closed" position. [The switch is a "normally open" design (NO).] When this occurs and the door is opened, the "monitor" switch causes the fuse to blow out. GE wants $50 for this part. However, I was able to find a universal design of microswitch at Fry's Electronics. It had the same rating (15 amp at 250 volts), same body size, both NO and NC terminals, but with a lever arm which I had to remove by opening the case. Cost was $2.47 + tax. (PRICELESS!). It works well now.. I also had to buy a set of Torx driver bits for tamperproof screws to be able to remove the oven cover. (The hole in the end of the bit goes over the tamperproof pin of the screw).
I also viewed a YouTube video which was helpful at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsWTCnACqdY
NOTE: I believe this problem occurs from opening the microwave door before the cooking is finished (without either pushing "pause" or "clear/off" buttons). This can cause a momentary "arc" between the switch contacts which, over time, will pit and burn the switch
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