My washer is now leaking from the bottom. It is not the standing drain pipe as the towel I tied around the flex pipe is not wet. I have the washer in a tub due to new wood floors. Not sure if I should replace or repair. One repair person said it could be the seal. If it is, how would I know for sure. Thanks.

This can happen when the drain hose is positioned too low relative to the tub of the washer. The siphon action will continue unless the end of the drain hose is higher than the water level of the washer. Take the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and check where the hose needs to be to stay above the washer tub. You might need to increase the height of the stand pipe or make sure that the hose doesn't get past a specific depth in the sink/stand pipe.

I hope this helps. If you need to raise the stand pipe, just glue a coupler and a length piece of PVC of the appropriate diameter to the current top of the stand pipe. (Use PVC cleaner and glue following the package directions.) The drain pump on most washers can push the water up 6-8' high. Thus you probably won't cause the pump to fail by lengthening the stand pipe.

Cindy Wells
(I know I've had issues with someone accidentally pushing the drain hose deeper into the stand pipe. I added a zip tie to make it a little harder for someone to shift the pipe.)

Wrap a dry towel completely around the outside of the disposal above where you believe its leaking but below any drain. Secure in place with tape and wait. If towel stays dry, then ok its leaking through the bottom bearing and replace unit.

If the towel is wet... keep looking.

There are gaskets and shaft seals that can leak. Not an easy task. On my GE washer, I had pinhole leaks near the transmission mounting flange. I used JB Weld epoxy and sheet metal screws to seal the leaks. and of course changed the gasket. That was 8-9years ago. So my investment in time and transmission paid off. A bright light under the clutch and a dark room may show what's leaking. you may be able to temporarily seal with a window caulk from the top or bottom Or a bathtub waterproof sealant. If it's the rubber gasket, a rubberized sealant "may" help. I guess it could also be the pump. I use paper towels tied around things like drain pipes to find leaks, or make sure my work is not leaking.

Overflow? Seal around drain may be good enough for shower, but leaks with a little more pressure from the filled tub. Filled tub may flex the tub and drain components. What about the overflow. I bet some water is going over, but it isn't used for showers. Double check. Paper towels tied in stratigic locations always help me find a leak. Leak makes the towel soak up water nearby. It's most wet at the point of leak.

turn water supply off to toilet and disconnect water line from bottom of toilet tank. flush toilet to drain tank, use towel to soak up water inside that didnt flush.remove the 2 bolts ( 1 on each side of toilet), lift toilet up and move to one side and lay on it side, scrape off old wax ring from bottom of toilet, scrape off excess wax from pipe on floor. install new wax ring over drain pipe. stand toilet upright and lift straight up over drain hole and reset slowly to make sure each bolt goes through the holes on toilet, replace nuts and washers on toilet and tighten. hook water supply liune back up and turn on water.

30 degrees or 30 inches. The drain stand pipe is separate from the washer and usual plumbed in behind the washer. You bring the the drain hose up to the top of the standpipe and then push the end (forming an upside down U at this point) into the top of the open 2-3" diameter PVC pipe and secure it so that it won't back out (but do not seal the opening). Nylon ties or hose clamps will work. The height requirement is so that the bottom of the hose in the standpipe is above the water level in the washer - this avoids the drain siphoning the water out of the washer. Check how far into the standpipe the drain hose has been pushed. If it is below the level of the water in the washer, back it out. Check the height of the standpipe. Many washer manuals recommend a 34" standpipe (max height of 48") based on the drain hose length on the down side of the U. Also make sure no one sealed the top of the standpipe against air entering the pipe. (Often this is done because of a back up in the drain, pull the drain hose out and get the pipe cleaned out and then put the hose in to the proper distance. Then leave the top of the standpipe open.)

For a picture of the standpipe, see http://www.appliance411.com/faq/washer-drain.shtml .

There is a parts diagram for your washer itself is here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-GLWN5050M0WS/0432/0153200?searchedModel=glwn5050&blt= .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

front load or top ? drain hose must be elevated to 36 '' 34 min. if hose on floor it will not work .. needs stand pipe . if its leaking inside you may have a hose off . reinstall and wala it works .. mm hope some of ans work for you ..

If you bought a new washer and you still have a leak, i guess it was not the washer but where it drains into. Sink or stand pipe has a leak. unless you are useing the old drain hose from your old washer. Dry up everything and look for the sorse of water with a bright light when the washer drains .

I had the exact same problem on my Whirlpool front loader (model# GHW9100LW1). It turned out to be a tear in the rubber drain hose (from tub to pump). There seemed to be some debris caught up in the drain hose, and what really did the damage was a piece of metal wire that broke off one of my wife's bra straps and made a nice tear in the hose. The washer leaked out of the left side as well and down the pedestal. The drain hose only ran about $13.00. To get to the hose you will have to remove the front tub seal (bellow) and the panel just above the pedestal. While you're in there it would be good to clean out the filter cap for the drain pump as well. Good luck!

Check WHERE the water is coming from... tie paper towels around the fittings... at the top of the elbow that comes out of the side of the disposal and points down, just below the compression nut where the vertical part of the elbow enters the P-Trap, below the nut on the other side of the P-Trap, below the nut on the bottom of the elbow where the vertical part of the P-Trap goes horizontal. DRY off the bottom of the cabinet and put a dry paper towel down...
NOW, run the water, get a good flashlight and see exactly where the water is coming from (the paper towels tied around the pipes will help you see which compression fitting is leaking) if the water is not coming from one of the joints, and is coming from the actual disposer housing, that housing may be cracked and need to be replaced. Otherwise, if you can find the compression fitting that is loose and leaking, tighten it. If that doesn't work, you may need to replace the compression ring (plastic washer) which you can buy at any HW store.