Question about Philips Televison & Video

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After about 10 minutes, the brightness is so high that the picture is washed out and barely viewable. The tv is aphilips 22PFL3504D/F7. If you turn the unit off when it is in the failed condition, it takes a long time for it to go back to normal. I have looked the circuit bd over for obvious overtemp, but there is nothing obvious. I found 1 cold solder joint on a cap but it did not fix the issue.

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  • lowgun100 Jan 02, 2011

    The only power mode is either on or off. The unit is in power save mode. Do you have access to a schematic for this peticular model? I have read on the internet about an under wattage resistor on some other tvs. I am wondering if this is a similar problem.

  • lowgun100 Jan 06, 2011

    What does "Worth a try for now" mean? I have tried looking at the circuit bd and components for discoloration, even tried feeling around while in the failed mode for excess heat. What I need is some idea as to where the brightness is controlled on this circuit. If you can't help with that, please just say so. I was under the impression based on the web sales pitch that you guys would have the answer. Am I still getting charged $16 for this?

  • lowgun100 Jan 08, 2011

    I apologize if I came acrossed as angry. I am not. I am an electronic technician and was hoping that you had access to some database of schematics that would lead me to an area of the motherboard. Without the schematic, I think we're done. I understand that it is extremely difficult to troubleshoot issues without being in front of it. I think the only thing left to do is to wait for a hard failure. This will limit my tv watching to about an hours or so, but that's ok. I am behind in my reading anyway. I think the TV cost about $200 when my dad bought it a couple years ago so the idea of buying parts or paying to get it fixed just doesn't make any sense. I find it amazining that we are in an age of disposable electroincs but there it is. Back to the tv, I have tried going through the menus and when in the failed state, nothing I do makes any difference. The brightness number is the same as it fails. At this point, this is for information to you only and like I said I will just let it go until it goes into a hard failure and the reisistor or whatever the problem component is burns out or at least discolors. If I remember, I will pass that along if/when it happens. Thanks for the help. Don (lowgun100@rochester.rr.com)

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Try opening the menu and go to picture options.Use a power saver mode if you already haven't.Monitor it for a while and see if anything changes.Please keep notes because there are a few different power saver mode options.The more info you end up with the better.If it ends up being okay with a power saver mode,there may be a circuit component soldered loose as you suggested as it is under less power obviously.If it ends up doing the same thing in all possible saver options,there is most likely something crazy going on with the board.Did you take out the board and inspect both sides?If this does not solve it,please do not approve/disapprove this yet as it will cut off our link,unless your problem is solved.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.I really encourage responses so I can follow up properly as I know where you stand and asking someone else restarts all the explaining because we cannot see other 'Expert's' responses.Good luck,Greg

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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  • Greg McCarthy Jan 02, 2011

    No I don't have a schematic.They are copyright protected by law and are quite expensive to purchase and are not free anywhere.It very well could be a resistor which is rated too low.All I can say for now is to check them for discoloration.You can try unplugging it for 5 minures because that is a method of resetting digital technology but i don't think it will help.Worth a try for now.Greg

  • Greg McCarthy Jan 06, 2011

    Yes you will be.I apologize but that is way out of my hands.We are both merely pawns on a site which I am not too proud of myself.You need to understand though,troubleshooting is a systematic process of elimination and results,move to the next step.Without a schematic,it is almost impossible to determine which section would be for brightness specifically because they also inter-relate to ther system circuits.I did a search trying to find a person's name which I helped,use yours for example,lowgun100,and i received a message which said"There is a guaranteed solution for your lowgun100 problem waiting for you"or something like that.I ws VERY disappointed and then realized why people get so angry.The site keeps all the money if you disapprove it and I get nothing.If you do approve it,once I reply the $ amount I would get is not visible until final approval.It may be $2,4,6?Either way the site keeps the money.If I get approved,it doesn't cost you anything extra.If you leave a contact,I will tell you about something else which may not exactly answer your question,but would be much better guidance.How old is your TV?I have seen alot of forums with Philips and Magnavox complaints.I have a Mag VCR DVD player and it's junk.I couldn't find anything about the under rated resistor though.Would you provide a link to it?Maybe I can determine which one it is.You seem to have some background as you can solder with confidence.I have a degree in elect engineer and used to repair alot of this stuff.Not too familiar with Philips though.Greg

  • Greg McCarthy Jan 06, 2011

    Also forgot to ask,did this just recently start all of a sudden or gradually?Also,are you able to see what the brightness is set at?I.E.Does the number setting stay the same during washout?Did you try doing anything with contrast either?Repair centers usually have a minimum parts price markup of 20%.Also you have to consider about $50-$60/hour for labor.Probably about $50 to show up at your door.If you can order and replace the board yourself,it would still be quite expensive.Seriously,I would like a contact please.When looking for an LCD TV,a couple of things you want to look for is a dynamic contrast ratio of between 50,000:1 and 150,000:1 and also 1080p.Any contrast ratio above is unnecessary and any ratio below will not be as good of a picture,but not by much.Some of the better brands are LG,Samsung,Vizio,Sony,and Panasonic.If you start looking at the 'off brands' because of a lower price,it is not worth it.Also,NEVER buy a floor model.For ANY discount they give you for one,it is not even close to being worth the savings because you have no idea what the TV has already endured.










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