Question about Kenmore 24932 Top Load Washer
There is a fault with your spin cycle speed this is normally an internal gearbox fault
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
First thing is to remove the 2 screws from the console, they may be hidden in the front or bacl of console. After removing screws, lightly push the base of the console towards the front of the washer and pick up. This will expose your lid switch connection. Using a jumper wire, jump out the black and white wires then try advancing your washer into spin/drain. The culprit will usually be the lid switch assy.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series won't spin
If the washer makes a noise from the front bottom center, when not agitating and not spinning, the motor/gearbox coupling has broken.
closed open It is designed to break, if the load gets enough that the motor may be damaged and is simple (enough) to replace
whirlpoool 285753, parts common to whirlpool roper ge kenmore and about a dozen other brands.
dissassembly instructions vary slightly between models but close enough, some have 2 clips some 3
(note: do not dislodge air tube from level selector)
(note: position for reinstall)
(note position for reinstall)
(Note the local parts guy will have the replacement, it is common to ge, whirlpool, roper, kenmore, new maytag, frigidaire and many others.)
(note dont hit the legs they break.)
(note: new spiders have metal center hubs, this is a common failure and the replacements have been strengthened)
in reverse order to above
gearbox coupling ~$17.00
time ~25 minutes, but I do 3-4/month
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Washer
looks like you have a defective motor or a leaked load capacitor .....you need to get the motor rewired....or get a new motor for your washer..... have the capacitor checked....
but ya the issue is 1 of the 2....faulty cap/motor
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
DO NOT by pass a lid switch. It is installed as a designed safety feature to prevent bodily when opening the lid from moving parts. The CORRECT solution is to replace the switch. The following link explains step-by-step how to replace a lid switch:
Replacements can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best deals. The first two web sites have excellent exploded view diagrams of your appliance to aid in parts location and assembly.
If you have any questions about this repair, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS This is not a difficult repair and it doesn't cost much ($25 to $35) on average for a replacement switch. Begin, fisrt by making sure the switch isn't loose or the lid strike (if equipped) isn't broken off. You may not need parts.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
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