Question about Buffalo Tools 1 Quart Capacity Air Paint Spray Gun

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I am in Davao, Philippines and just bought this spray gun. I have no experience of using spray guns and was surprised to find there is no manual. Not even basic info like which adjuster is for fluid and which is for air or fan control. The only thing included is an exploded view that gives no information other than screw, washer, seal, etc. Is there anything I can download that give basic information?

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  • frank574 Jan 03, 2011

    Thanks. Your answer pretty much sums up why I need advice. I can bleed the compressor tank before I start but I doubt if I can find a water trap where I am.
    I will only be using it for my own personal use. I have a wood table I just made that I will spray with polyurethane varnish, a 16 foot catamaran nearly finished that I will part paint and part varnish, and a two story wooden house that I will varnish. None of this needs a perfect finish but of course I want to get it as good as I can.
    We just entered the rainy season so humidity will be an obvious problem.
    I need to know things like how thin the paint/varnish should be. How to use the paint gun controls, etc. Then once I get started I will figure out what to do about other problems.

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Im a professinal spray painted. Although i now what you have there are a lot of variblys this is called a conventional system. Is made for light meteral spraying on metals or fine finish objects. Paint quilty and thinning and proper air control feed and volume are the most critical as well as the envirment that you are working in do to the extened time it takes the meterial to set up and the number of coats to achive the mil thickness required for the product to proform at its specified levels. Looking at your gun if the picture is correct the upper control knob is the spray pattern control and the second knob is the paint or fulid control the amount of paint that comes out he tip that is also controlable but olny from vertical to horizontal pattern it should come out in a cone shape. And what you realy need hear is a regulator between the regulator at the compressor and the air supply at the air hook up on the gun and also a water trap in line before that so condensation drops woun't spit out the tip and pock mark the finish. Idon't know what you want to use this mechine for but it is a vary complex opperation and you had better do your homework if there is liabilty involved with what you are doing. good luck

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

  • 11 more comments 
  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 04, 2011

    Hi frank sorry i din't get back to you sooner . B ut like i said i'm a professonal painter i've been in business for 20 years and grow up in a family owened comerical painting company.So i know about every kind of spray mechine and spray system you could think of and also rebuild pumps guns and other equiptiment on the side. You gave me a good rating so im going to tell you what you need to do. First you can't use the gun you have its what is called a conventinal system were air is pumped into the cup to presserive the meterial and force it out the tip then some of the air is sent to the spray tip to atomize the material as it comes out the tip to make a cone shaped patten. This works great in a controled envirment with exhuast fans like if you wanted to paint a car with vary thin meterial that cost 150 dollar a gallon paint . The problem is you need to spray varnish spar varnish its to thick and to thin it enough to have it come out the tip with a controled fashion you would loose 75 % of what came out and it would drift in the air until it landed on something and what hit the surface that you wanted to protect would fail because it would be to thin to be effictive and protect the wood. What you need it called an airless system this works by a pump puting pressure on the fulid derectly hyldroic pressure and the atomization it done at the tip witch is a much smaller opening with spar varnish 11 thousandnts of an inch it will pump the meterial that is much heavry with far less meterial loses air drift although there will be some. Im not sure of what is avababule where you are but wanger makes small hand held airless spray guns or if you could rent a small airless system from a paint store that would be better for the house although you could do them bolth with a wanger but just plane on throughing it away when your done it will be vary worn out. Well i told you this was complex now on to problem #2 spar varnish is a gloss with a UV blocker added to it that makes look kind of yellow. The prorlem hear is gloss dose not adhere to gloss you need to sand every thing on the boat that needs to be refinished with the varnish so it will stick. Humidity is going to be another problem varnish turns white if moisture gets traped under it and will flack off so you need to do this in the driest posibale condutions you can with lots of prep work. A good idia would to get the best quility products and see if you can find a flat varnish for the first coat on the boat because that will stick to a gloss varnish and then second coat with the gloss varnish with the UV blocker they must have this meterial where you live it would be in demand. PREP IS EVERYTHING but boats are high maintenance and need to be redone on a yearly baisis.As far as the house goes you need to tell me what kind of wood is on it and how thick it is and unless you like sanding i would not recomend puting varnish on the side of your house. Oils are high maintenance to but are a lot easyer to work with and tend to ware off although you must get that sand blasting effect from the ocean storms. Well i told you it was going to be complex tell me what you have for sideing on the house and mabey i can help you with a product that will be easy to apply and give you the longest lasting results pier_j

  • frank574 Jan 04, 2011

    The equipment I have is the best I could find in the biggest store of its kind. Most people in the Philippines are only interested in price. The cheaper the better. Quality is rarely a factor and so anything expensive or advanced is often impossible to find.

    Last year I made a stainless steel and fiberglass top deck for my sport fishing boat and found a professional painter to spray it. He used the top Anzahl paint developed for ships, used far worse equipment than I have and did the job in my car port. I have to do something similar. His work was near perfect but we spent a lot of time sanding with fine sandpaper before and during the painting process.

    The boat is not being refurbished. It is not even finished yet. The hulls (it is a catamaran) will be painted with polyurethane paint and the floor boards and center deck will be polyurethane varnish. I can't find any good varnish here that says it is UV resistant but I am not too bothered as the boat will be kept under cover. All surfaces will be carefully sanded before I start painting and sanded again if needed between coats. All surfaces to be painted are fiberglass laid on with epoxy resin.

    I have almost finished varnishing the table with polyurethane varnish using brushes.

    The house on the outside is bamboo matting. Painting it with a brush would waste 80% of the paint. There are plenty of times when there is no wind at all so I just need to do the best I can. The house is also not yet finished so everything is new and clean but sanding the matting would be impossible.

    There are no storms where I am. Even strong winds are rare but I reckon polyurethane is about as good as it gets anyway.

    Humidity is almost always high so that will be a problem for sure.

  • frank574 Jan 04, 2011

    Correct on my last message. The paint I have for the boat is epoxy paint. I figured epoxy paint would be best on an epoxy resin surface.

  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 07, 2011

    Frank im back sorry iv'e been busy making a living but iv'e read your massgaes As far as the siding its bamboo thats getting big for flooring here in high end jobs. Im usa east coast connecicut. The stuff grows there its in the grass family vary hard and dosn't absorb moisture retaly i wouldn't think you would have to but anything on it they don't on floors here and its big money . The way it works in places like watch hill road iland they was alasken ceader and replace it do to the effect of the sand blowing against it every 25 to 30 years but put now finish on it and bomboo is much harder then ceder . As far as the boat goes what they are useing it a 2 compount polyurethane and its vary good for this appalation but have them use it in side the hull as well. You don't have laws there that restrict the use of this kind of product . It was devloped by the miltary to paint submerine balasted tanks and other equipitment . Its extremaly durabale and chemical restand but not save to use until its cured 10 days . So the **** will absorb through your skin and wipe out your liver fast it has MEK its on the top 10 list of cancer causeing adjents know to man kind people who work with it unprotected have a life expectancy of 10 years its that bad . If you want to do some teak or moranta oil it every year

  • frank574 Jan 07, 2011

    The bamboo matting on the house is thin 1" wide strips woven together. I use thicker stuff for fencing, garden stakes, etc and it does last for years if its not in the ground. The reason I want to spray it is because when used outside it goes an ugly grey color after a while so spraying it will maintain the nice color and also help protect against termites. There is a picture of the house as it was when we bought it here:http://www.frankwoolf.com/forum/album.ph...

  • frank574 Jan 07, 2011

    Half my last message disappeared when I clicked submit! The other half was something like this:
    Thanks for the warning. The polyurethane varnish I am using is single part. I used 2 part before but had a lot of trouble getting a good enough finish.
    The epoxy paint has very strong fumes unlike epoxy resin that has almost none but everything is being done out in the open. (dust is a problem of course)
    I fiberglassed the entire outside of the boat and all the inside is coated with epoxy resin without glass so the paint is double protection and of course for color.
    The table is almost finished so I can get it out of the way then I will experiment with the spray gun. Maybe I will fill it with thinners for set up and testing then I will try spraying polyurethane varnish with reducer on the boat decks.

  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 11, 2011

    Hi frank im getting back to you had some troble getting on line something to do with clearing the broswer history im no computer wiz. But i did get a chance to look at your pictures you've come a long way looks a lot better then the before shots. I also saw the sideing i blew it up as much as i could to about 250% then it starts to distort to much and i see that it comes in rolls it looks almost like a door mate i pictured it being solid peices of bamboo tied together.I think why they use this is because moisture can pass through it easly and still keep the rain out I also see that they put wooden strips on the outside of the siding this must be to stableize it in the wind so it must flex a bit. For these reasons i would have say now to varnish its not flexable enough for one and the moisture will pass from the inside to the out side and you would have problems with the varnish cracking and falling off not to mention the stuff may rot from the inside out. Granted i don't live on an tropical iland and it would be wise for you to see what others do who have a similar situation but i would say some kind of oil load it on until it won't take anymore. This should give you protection against color loss and insects is there any place that those dam termites don't live and should also give you enough ventilation to keep the sideing from rotting you just may have to redo it every couple of years or so but i think this is going to be high maintentice now matter what you end up putting on it .As for as your boat gose that was a vary good idia to cost it with fiberglass resin witch is an epoxy that stands up to chemical reactions vary well there differant kinds of epoxys some better some worse for salt water none of them are good with heat ist hard stuff most is a 9 on the mohles scale so as long as its made for this applation at least in side the hull you should be OK with it you just don't want a peeling issue so its got to stick real good.Any wood on top of the deck however is going to be more of a finish type of wood like the dashboard in an expensive car its for show more then the inside of the hull would be and is going to get a lot more uv rays from the sun. S o depending on the wood i would lean more towards a finishing oil it will ware off but will never peel and with a boat you know you need to refinish each seasion.The gun you have is going to be vary diffuicult for you to use its simpley not the correct thing to use under the conudtions that you have you can play with it but it will never spray meterial with out thining it to much to have it stand up to the condutions that you have. Isee what you mean about equiptment being hard to come by where you are. But you should still be able to order some things on line. If you give me a fax # i will fax you information about the perfict mechine for you olny draws 100 watts sprays heavyer material 1 gal in 11 munites and costs 130 dollars and 30 more the flat spray tip it comes with 3 tips but the flat one is much better. Iv'e have olny had to buy 3 of them in 20 years and 2 are still working its made in switzerland and would last you for ever and make your life much easer as long as you have extion cords just oil the pistion every time and clean it good when you use it. well i hope this will be of help to you

  • frank574 Jan 11, 2011

    Many thanks. Yes please send me the info on the spray gun. I do buy a lot of stuff on-line so once I know what to get it should be easy. Now I have used the gun I can see it is not great quality so I would like to get better. I also need to find a water trap.

    The other very big difference between the Philippines and the US or UK is the very low cost of labor and natural materials. The bamboo matting does last for years if not in the ground but it goes an ugly grey color. The matting is not waterproof. The beach is just used for recreation so it does not justify the same costs as our house to live in would. The bamboo matting and the 2" x 1" wood to hold it on is very cheap and the labor to do the work is cheap so I am more concerned with it looking nice than worrying about how long it lasts. Water is not much of a problem because I have overhanging roofs plus smaller roofs above the ground floor. The wall only get wet when there are strong winds and they are rare here. The bamboo strips used for the matting are quite thick. We usually cut it with a wood chisel and hammer! The main reason it is popular is because it is extremely cheap so the very poor farmers use it to build their houses.

    The inside walls are all marine ply and the floors are all 1" thick wood on 8" x 2" joists so as soon as the house is finished we will be spraying everything including inside the walls and ceilings with strong anti termite spray. We will give it three coats that should last two years.

    The boat hulls will be heavily sanded and I may yet add another coat of resin to help get them smooth without sanding through to the glass cloth. They will then be washed to remove the resin bloom and sanded again before painting. The epoxy paint I have gives a very good finish when brushed on so if there are any problems spraying I will just brush it on.

    I use two types of epoxy resin from two different manufactures. One stays quite flexible and is specifically for wood boat building. The other is very hard and less flexible. I use the flexible resin for most of the building and finishing. I use the very hard one on less flexible surfaces like decks where it needs to be very hard wearing.

    Yesterday I sprayed the first coat of varnish on all the boat floor boards and the center deck and sprayed a finishing coat of varnish on the table. I didn't need to thin the varnish as it is very liquid and it looks pretty good so far. Today after the sanding of the first coat is finished I will put on a second coat. I did get some water spitting out after I had been spraying for a while but opening the drain valve of the compressor tank after spraying for a while almost solves the problem. A water trap would of course be better.

  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 11, 2011

    Got your massage frank im trying to figure out how to post things on the internet of the scanner it seams likely you don't have a fax #where you are and it probably would not be pratical to do this so i will give you the name # and adress so you can look ferther into this . You will have the most high teck thing any buddy has ever seen even though its 30 year old teck but its prefict for what you need KREBS INC 36-41 36THSTREET LONG ISLAND CITY NY 11106 #718 392 6215 MODEL # 40T that would be the best one for you sorry its to old to have a web site on this manual that i have . And you also want a flat fan nozzle F7-S thats a 7 ths tip part #9-07-17 i'll get back to you with the manual as soon as i figure out how to do it . I told you i'm not a computer wize

  • frank574 Jan 12, 2011

    Do you have the name of the spray gun. I may find more info on the web looking for the product rather than the company.
    Thanks

    Frank

  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 12, 2011

    KREBS THEY MAKE IT

  • JOHN LAPIER Jan 12, 2011

    ELECTRIC AIRLESS PAINT SPRAYERMODEL 40 T

  • frank574 Jan 12, 2011

    Many thanks. I will do some searching.

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