Question about Nikon 39x40 Matte Nikoplex Buckmaster Riflescope

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Elevation adjustments do not seem to hold or the scope moves slowly over time. I'm not certain. Windage works fine. Looked at manual on the web and the scope must have changed design because not adjustment can be made by turning a nob, only with a screwdriver. Not certain if the scope is bad. Any help appreciated.

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Most of the time a scope that creeps off its zero, has a loose mount screw and or loose mounting ring. Check the mounts all screws. Some times the opposite is true. The mounts are to tight and in a bind. Then during firing the receiver heats up an tweaks the scope enough to cause creep. If the scope is always on zero when cold and creeps off after a few shots, she is in a bind. Make all adjustments to the scope base and rings with a cold gun. Loosen the front ring screws first then re-tighten then loosen the rear doing the same. Then try and re-zero the gun. If the gun never comes back to zero, you end one day shooting hi to the right and try again the next day shooting in the same spot try to re-tighten all screws. Screws from mount to gun then scope rings to scope body.

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

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How to use redfieeld 3x9x42 scope


Depends on the scope and rifle type to which it is attached.
I invested in an inexpensive laser bore such as this one for an AR: SightMark AccuDot Laser Bore Sight - 223 Model SM39001 (for AR-15)
Once the scope is mounted properly, and assuming you have not made any vertical or horizontal adjustments, set the rifle on a stable platform, insert the bore sight, point it at a target 50 (rimfire) to 100 (AR) yards out (works best in low light situation).
Once you have the laser centered on your target, make elevation and windage adjustments as necessary placing the scope cross hairs over the laser. Remove the bore sight and fire 3 rounds, then fine tune elevation and windage.

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Check you mounts. If mounted properly you should have enough. if they are not moving at all you have prob broken the fine wires that form the crosshairs.

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Which direction do you turn windage and elevation


To raise the point of impact, turn the elevation screw counterclockwise. To shift left, turn windage screw clockwise. If you raise the horizontal cross hair you will lower the point of impact of the bullet. If you move the vertical cross hair to the right the shot placement will go to the left. Make small adjustments tap the scope with a screwdriver handle to give it a shock, not to hard to help move the cross hairs and try to bore sight first. Hope this helps Fix ya up.

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Dont understand why on top of an side of scope setting there is ur ur instead of left right or up down


The "U" indicates Up on the elevation dial, and the "R" indicates Right on the windage dial. Turn the elevation dial clockwise to move the point of impact up, counterclockwise moves down. Similarly, turning the windage dial clockwise moves Right, and counterclockwise moves left. Here's a scan from the Zeiss Conquest manual:
Good luck!

thomascha103_5.jpg

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Is that the "Prairie Master"? I think Simmons is pretty uniform in that range of scopes--elevation adjustment should be the top dial and windage is on the side. The zoom locking ring should be in front of the eyepiece, with the zoom ring just forward of that.

You can download a generic Simmons scope manual from the Simmons site at this link: http://www.simmonsoptics.com/downloads/manuals/archive/HSI_Simmons%20Generic%20Scope%20Adjusting%20Instructions.pdf

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1 Answer

Windage and elevation adjustment all over the place


Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

May 02, 2009 | Optics

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Windage and elevation not working barska 8-32*50mm


I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

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2 Answers

Lost manual for trophy scope 3-9x40 rifle


There is no manual for elevation and windage adjustments. (at least not one that comes with your scope; all your scopes manual will say is whether its FFP or SFP (First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane, the scale used on your scope for mil dots)(you can get this info by finding a store that sells this scope and asking a sales rep)

To adjust for elevation and windage you have to take into account the daily factors (unless your shooting in the same indoor environmental controlled shooting range each day you SNOB! jk

The formula takes alot of variables into account and is known as Exterior Ballistics

!) Environmental Factors - First thing you account for.

A) Elevation from sea level plays a large part into your environmental adjustments. Your elevation from sea level determines largely the Barometirc Pressure but it also varies slightly with Temp and Humidity (Major Factor)

B) Temperature - The temperature can affect the density of the air. The hotter it is the thinner it is and therefore less resistance and a higher bullet trajectory (Minor Factor)

C) Humidity - This again will affect the densify of the air infront of your bullet (Minor Factor)

D) Barometric Pressure - The other large factor in air density this is the base stat that the others modify

These all combined create a ratio that you apply to standard MOA (windage and elevation adjustments) to obtain the shooting information for that particular environment)



2) Bullet Factors (Listed on the Box you buy) - There are a few bullet factors to take into account.

A) Speed - the bullets feet per second can vary as much or more than 500 feet per second with the
same caliber ammunition.
B) Grain - The Grain of an ammunition is a measure fo its "Sectional Density" or weight to volume
ratio
C) Ballistic Co Efficient - This number is the measure of the bullets ability to maintain its speed
during flight. This also varies from Grain to Grain


These factors are complex and a pain for the best of shooters to determine. adding to that confusion. there are many ways to determine a bullets ballistics coefficient and each one gets a different number. In this case bullet data is best retieved from the manufactuerers box and take their word for it.

3) Lastly you account for shot factors.

A) Range - by referencing your standard elevation MOA adjustments and mutliplying by the ratio for environment the Elevation MOA is achieved.


B) Windage - Windage is done in inches per mile per hour then is multiplied by the Mph of the wind.
In order to be precise the windage is done in inches instead of MOA. it needs to be converted heres and example.

You Ballistics Cheat Sheet for the day says the windage at 900 yards is 5.2 Inches per mph of wind.
you apply the ratio for your environment .90 (all example numbers. this number would represent a shooting environment with an air density lower than standard/ the cheat sheet's known MOA adjustments). the 5.2 inches is multiplied by .9to acheive 4.68?? idk the point is you mulitply that by the wind of 10 mph to achieve a total of 46.8" of wind drift to the target.

now for the conversion to MOA. 1 MOA is eqaul to 1.047" per 100 yards. meaning for every 1 moa you adjust the bullet will move 1.047" per 100 yards (our target is 900 yards; meaning that each MOA for this target is 9*1.047" = 9.423" per MOA adjustment. so take that number and divide our total wind drift by it. ie 46.8 / 9.423 = MOA Windage Change of 4.9665... now you need to know whethere your scope is 1/4 minute clicks or 1/8 minutes (how many spaces between large numbers?) you would adjust to 5 MOA for a 1/4 minutes scope equaling 20 clicks on an 1/8th minute scope it would be 40 clicks.

This is the math of shooting. to learn how go to
WWW.shooterready.com they are an excellent sight to get the math down WITHOUT wasting ammo. Once you have the math you an transfer it to your gun. waste a few rounds checking it out and youll be hitting targets @ 1800 yards in no time

I like to take the simple way after i learned how to do the hard way

There is software tha will do the exterior calcualtions for you.

if your interested i use Sierra Infinity V6 Ballistics Software

GL


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1 Answer

Lost caps


I'm not sure how this got posted in the car audio section...

 

If the scope was manufactured by a well established company, you should be able to get a new cap from them.

 

If you cannot locate the manufacturer, you can move the other cap to the windage adjustment to set the windage. Then when you're finished, move the cap back to the elevation adjustment.

 

Even if you use it for a shooting discipline that requires constant adjustment, it's unlikely that you'll need to use the windage adjustment for anything other than setting the zero.

Oct 16, 2007 | Hifonics Titan TX 8805 Multi-Channel Amp...

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