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Well everything is defrosting, when i was trying to figure it out, I noticed that the back wall of the freezer was frosting up. I removed the bottom pan and of the visible vents I could see there is ice in them. possibly blocking the cold air?

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Bnm
bnm

Sorry to hear about your problem.

Sounds like you have a defrost issue. Hence your unit is not defrosting. All of this apply's if your freezer side has ice on it. If not. you have other issues, this does sound funny, but this is why your refrigerator side is warm, or not cooling.

Here is a list of some things that can go wrong.
1. Defective heat coil
2. Defective defrost timer
3. Defective defrost sensor
4. Defective Fan


You should call a service company to resolve your issue.

Since I tried to help you, Please help me and Rate/Vote on the response. Thanks

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but ice is forming on the bottom vent and fridge is warm and water droplet on the wall between freezer and fridge


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

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Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Aug 15, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I want to defrost my GE chest freezer but i do not know where the drain is


Since you did not include a model number this is my best guesses:
http://manuals.appliancesonline.com.au/kcm2100wc/kcm2100wc.pdf (Page 1 w/pic)

and
http://www.appliancesdirect.com/InstallationPdf/49-60442.pdf (page 7 no pictures)

For Complete Defrosting

Turn the temperature control to the

OFF position and unplug the freezer.

Remove all food and place it in

corrugated boxes, insulated bags,

picnic coolers, etc. Use towels and

newspapers for insulation as needed.

With the door/lid open, use pans of

hot water to speed loosening of frost.

Remove large pieces before they melt.

Chest models have a defrost water drain

at the front.

NOTE: Water may drip from the back flange of

the lid cover during defrosting. This is normal.

Ice builds up in the lid insulation when the lid is

open for adding or removing food, and melts

during the defrosting operation.

Sponge excess water from the bottom

of the freezer as it collects to prevent

overflowing.

After defrosting, clean the inside of the

freezer (see Care and Cleaning).

Replace the drain plug inside the

cabinet and the cap on the defrost

drain. Fold over and dry the gasket

on the hinge side of the lid.

Plug in the freezer. Return the

temperature control to its previous

position and return food to the freezer.


Hopefully with this information you can find the drain. If not go to www.ge.com and click on service and support to download your manual. (Model number required)
or contact them here:

800 GE CARES
(800.432.2737).

Thanks for choosing FIXYA,
Kelly

Jul 24, 2011 | General Electric Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

FRIDGE button is set on 3, red light flashes, air system works but it is not cool for at least 1 hour, Freezer set on 4 S and works.


Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice

Jul 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Defrost heater,every 2 weeks back of freezer frosts over, fridge gets warm, manualy dethaw get 2 more weeks


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Jun 06, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My fridge is not very cold but the freezer it fine


Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer( evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils( under the unit ) for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if it is running.

If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.

You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with BOTH DOORS WIDE OPEN to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.

Aug 04, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Refrigertor not gettng cold enough, and now freezer is doing the same. when we turn the number to 9 you can hear it go on - but still food is defrosting. Milk in frig not getting cold enough. Refrig is...


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Nov 08, 2009 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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