Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
I have a Whirlpool model WTW4950XW0. Once i push the start button.
The lid locks, sensing lite on, machine goes through its cycle, than lid unlocks
monents later.What wrong. I was doing laundry and notice the machine making some noise on the spin cycle. I push the pause button and remove some clothes.
thats when the sensing lite keeps blinking.
Posted on Oct 16, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washing machines
Check to see if there is a start capacitor somewhere on the machine. If so, it could be bad. If not, then you may have a transmission or frozen basket drive. If you did the motor coupler yourself, remove the motor again and try to turn by hand the part thats inserted in the transmission. If it turns ok, probably not the trans. Good Luck!!! Jim
Posted on Sep 08, 2007
we just bypass them,unless your going to stick your hand in there during spin cycle,-unplug washer,remove the 2 head screws 1 on each side of the head,flip the head up,you will see the lid switch jack in the middle of the top of washer, unplug it,cut the 2 outside wires and wire nut them together,plug back in,put the head back,plug in washer and your done,this way it cost you nothing to fix,the other way would be around $40,let me know how you do-mike
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
You can check various appliance repair websites for self help manuals, or you can follow these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Have you purchased a lid switch yet? Most major appliance repair centers carry them. The price is about $35. If you have not purchased one yet, let me know what your EXACT model number is (located on the rim of the wash tub opening under the lid) and I will locate a part number for you. I hope this information helps you.
Posted on Jan 21, 2008
If the timer and lid switches are funtional and the machine is filling and shutting off correctly that only leaves the motor. Have the motor tested or replace it. Even though the timer is running it is possible that it is still at fault. If you have access to another timer try switching them to make sure it isn't the timer. This does sound like a faulty motor and I would start with that assumption.
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
Yes, a broken lid switch can cause the washer not to drain. The pumps on these washers are strictly mechanical. They have no electrical connections and only have one moving part - the impeller. If the pump were clogged, it would not drain, but if the drain line is clear, the problem is the lid switch. Since you mentioned your switch was broken, I would begin there. Congrats. You've pretty much already diagnosed your problem.
The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: A simple test to determine if the pump is clogged is to use a wet/dry shop to pull a vacuum on the drain line at the standpipe. If the water drains freely, it is not clogged. You can also use simple gravity by removing the drain line from the standpipe at the wall and laying it on the floor. The water will pour out if the pump and lines are clear. This second procedure is messy and I would not recommend it if you have your washer in an indoor laundry room. You can, however, try to use the gravity method by catching the water in a bucket.
Posted on May 15, 2010
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