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I took the wires off the clock/timer to clean the glass because junk got behind it. When I put it all together the clock/timer does not work. It may be that I have two wires crossed. I need a wiring diagram that indicates which color wires plugs go on which spade connector on the clock/timer. GE JKPG0J3BG, S/N GZ600486G. Thanks

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  • Craig Shipp
    Craig Shipp May 03, 2012

    HI. Did you ever work this out as I need a solution. Thanks



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I think I worked it out. Black = Neutral. Brown = Live for the two power spades. The four spades for the timer (from the top+ = Red, Orange, Brown then white on the bottom. You will notice that Red and Orange, Brown and White are clipped together. Timer (and oven) is now working perfectly.

Posted on May 03, 2012


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I have a New World Twinline 4000 double oven which is approx 15 years old. The progammer has developed a fault and I cannot set the clock, therefore the oven won't switch on. Is this repairable because...

You need to take the timer out of the circuit (you will only be able to run the oven without timer).
1. Switch off the mains or disconnect the oven from mains.
2. Pull out the 5 buttons of timer. Might need to apply a bit of force but they should come out fairly easily.
3. Pull the two temperature adjustment knobs out.
4. The glass decorative plate is attached with some sort of clamps so if you pull it off the oven it should come off as well.
5. Take out the 3 screws on top of the oven above the wireing. You should be able to bend the metal panel up a bit.
6. Take out the 3 screws that secure the side panel by the front panel. You should bend the panel out here as well.
7. Now you should be able to see inside behind the timer unit. There are two clamps on each side of timer that keep it in place. From behind they can be pressed in so the timer can be pulled out towards the front.
8. Once done take a look at the wires that go into the timer unit. There are four: A, B, C, D. Disconnect all but make sure you mark them which is which.
9. You will not need wire A and B so put insulating tape on the metal connectors and let them hanging loose. The are the power source of the timer.
10. Cut the connectors off of wire C and D, and solder them together. Then put insulating tape over the bare soldered wire. The timer is now cut out of the circuit and can only be switched on/off by the temperature adjusting knob.
11. Tuck the wires back into the appliance making sure they are loose and well placed, possibly far from the oven side.
12. Lock the timer back in place if you want. It is going to be a dead weight doing nothing so it is not necessary to put it back.
12. Assemble the coverings in reverse order as described above.

You should be a working oven now with the annoying bit removed and being better off a few hundred quid.

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I have a GE electric oven mode JSP48G*J2. It has a mechanical clock/timer that has gone bad. The replacement part is WB19X10007, but I'd like to see the instructions for installing this before I go spend...

Normally the mechanical timers have only 2 terminals. Active supply in and oven load out. It doesn't matter which wire you put where. If you don't use the timer just join the active supply and the load together and the oven will work.

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I have an oven with digital clock. Every time power is cut, it seems that the digital clock needs to be repaired by replacing it. If the clock does not work, oven is not operative. Is there a way to solve...

Yes, it is simply matter of bypassing the clock/timer so that the oven thermostat will have permanent power going to it all the time. It is a matter of removing the active and load wire at the rear of the timer and joining them together.

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I had a problem similar. The bottom oven stopped working and the left hand set of controls and clock died. I had three figure quotes for repair. I took the main control unit out from behind the switches, its a pain to do. I took pictures of where the wires went to save confusion later. I removed the main switch unit from the control unit by gently pushing back the inbuilt plastic clips. dont loose the small white connector piece on the end of the switch shaft. I gently pulled the switch knobs from the front then the knob extensions through the same holes. once the unit was out I turned it upside down I could see where two solder tracks on the circuit board had burnt out. I gently cleaned them up and bridged the gap with two short tinned pieces of single core wire I had stripped. I used a soldering gun as it gets really hot really fast and wouldnt damage the components underneath. the only fiddly bit when putting it back together was locating the bottom edge of the control unit in the little gulley, I had to bend the edge of the gulley down to make it easier. Once it was all back together it worked. Half an hour and I saved £300! Now I have to fix the hinges on the bottom oven door as it doesnt shut properly at the top. Any ideas anyone?

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The center clock-oven module no longer lights up and the oven doesn't work, but the burners on top work. model rf341bxk. The oven light still works. Is there a fuse blown that I can replace?

Hello, welcome to fixya.

Unfortunately many modern ranges do not incorporate fuses into the control panels, other than the 15amp outlets used for plugging in external devices, they are typically the resettable type fuse.

Many manufactures have gone away from the typically glass fuse style circuit interrupters of previous ranges of say 15-20yrs ago and older.

If the clock display is not illuminated nor functioning, but the surface element functions appear fine, it is likely a fault within the clock ( also referred to as a timer or erc ) itself. Check for possible burnt or loose wires going into the timer such as L1 or L2 etc.

**Please unplug the range or turn off the 40amp breaker at your homes service panel before attempting any service to the range**

The part for the timer/clock is # 3196967 and retails for between $167 to $233 at "" and "" respectively as I type this on June 6/2010.

Hope this info was helpful to you...even if it isn't great news. Please take a moment and rate the info I provided and thanks for visiting "fixya".

macmarkus :)

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I found mine did the same I pusshed the face and it came back on. It appears fault within circuitry of clock and will need to be replaced

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