On my DIMPLEX LYM28E heater, two of the heating elements start to glow and then cut out. Is there a thermal cutout on these bars?
Let me tell you my experience with a GE clothes dryer that I've had for a long time and had to fix a few times. The thermal switch was a "throw away" - that is, once it activates, it's done and needs to be replaced. This switch was attached to the back-wall of the dryer body and the thermal sensing face was up against the metal surface of the dryer. They "why" it activated (that is kicked off the power to the dryer) is that the body of the dryer was getting too warm/hot from a drying cycle and that activated it. The switch cost about $12 and it consists of a small diameter bi-metalic element that - when it heated up, it pushed its internal contacts apart and kills the power to the dryer. I took the switch apart and the whole process became clear as to why this was happening - not enough ventilation around the dryer. Of course, taking the switch apart killed it so don't expect to use it again. Make sure your dryer is clean of lint around the blower motor and that the exhaust stack is not up against the body of the dryer, or insulate it so if it does touch, its not going to transfer the temperature to the dryer metal.
Oct 21, 2014 |