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I need a new crossover for my M3 speaker. Drivers seem to be good

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No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

KLH Rave-12 speakers - some drivers are not working


If you place an ohm meter across the capacitors, the ohms should slowly drop as the capacitor charges. You can check continuity of the coils with continuity function of the multi tester.
Madisound.com is a good source for quality components.

Aug 16, 2009 | KLH Rave-12 Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

I have two Infinity RS 8a speakers. They take a


Either one of the drivers (woofer, midrange, tweeter) has a short in it, or there's short in the crossover network. The drivers all need to be taken out and the DCR checked; they should be between 3.5 to 4 ohms.. if those all check OK there is a shorted part in the crossover network.

Aug 11, 2009 | Infinity Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Crossover?


A crossover is a circuit that breaks down a whole spectrum of frequencies into groups. For example, your speaker has 3 individual speakers (drivers) in it. There is a woofer, mid and tweeter. A crossover will send the appropriate frequencies to each of the drivers. The woofer can not reproduce high frequencies so it doesn't make sense to send them there. The sam can be said for low frequencies and the tweeter. The crossover point defines the splitting point of the frequencies. Depending upon what sub-woofer you are using usually the crossover freqwuency is either 80 or 100. Most often it is 100.

Hope this helps,
Dan

Aug 20, 2008 | Onkyo TX-SR503 Receiver

1 Answer

I have a 400 watt speaker and the board in not working and the the speakers and everything else is working good but i think that it the board inside the speaker.


the board that you are talking about is the crossover, does any of the speaker work the woofer or tweeter or midrange drivers? If the woofer does not work then take out the woofer and take the wires that attach to the speaker on the back and hook them directly to the speaker that you took out if it plays you need to replace the crossover in the speaker, this should be easy, just call the company that makes the speaker and order a new crossover, you can do this also with the speaker if there is no sound when you hook it up direct.

Aug 19, 2008 | Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

I need replacement 8" drivers for my Peavey PRM 308S Monitors. What would you recommend?


You have to use original manufacture parts if you want the orignal sound and specs. The crossovers and design of the speaker enclosure is matched for the speaker drivers. Start at the link below.

http://www.peavy.com/


Jerry G.

Apr 28, 2008 | Peavey CH1 Speaker

2 Answers

Bypassing the 150 watt blown amp with passive crossover


I'm purchasing 2 infinity 3-way passive crossovers on eBay with the same crossover freqs as my two overture 3's with blown amps. For 19.99 each, it's worth a try. Good luck to you!

Jan 06, 2008 | Infinity Overture 2 Speaker

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