The tank wiggles/shakes doesnt seem secure. I am worried if I crank down on the bolts the tank will crack. Also my ceramic floor is not quit even there is a crunching noice when you set on the toilet. Would you suggest caulking around the toilet base between toilet and floor?

Things needed; set of johnnie bolts, wax ring, water supply tube, open end wrenches.
insert the flat head of the johnnie bolts into the groove of the floor flange so the threads are pointed straight up. Install the wax ring directly onto the floor flange. Set your toilet bowl down on top of the wax ring so the johnnie bolts stick up through the holes at the bottom. Install the washers and nut to secure the toilet to the floor. Depending on the type of toilet, you may or may not need to manually install the tank to bowl gasket and tank to bowl bolts. Set tank onto bowl and tighten the bolts. Usually a 1/2" wrench. Do not over tighten because the porcelain will break. Install the water supply to the bottom of the tank and then tighten it to the water shutoff valve. Install the seat, and your all set.

Turn off the water at the supply (under the toilet, usually).Flush the tank to remove all water from the tank.Disconnect the supply from the tank.Remove bolt caps or bolt covers from where the toilet bolts to the bathroom floor.Remove bolts from the floor flange. When you lift the toilet up, you'll see a metal or plastic flange. If the toilet has been there for a long time the bolts may not pull out of the flange easily. In this case you may have to use a small hacksaw to cut the bolt below the nut.Put newspaper or an old towel on the floor so you can place the old toilet on it. Lift the toilet off the flange.Take the new bowl (assuming this is a two-piece toilet) and turn it upside down. Position the wax ring on the horn of the outlet. Install new solid brass flange bolts, mount them and position them on the centerline on either side of the outlet.Push the bowl down over the bolts and seal the outlet. The wax will squeeze down and seal.Put the new bolts, washers and bolt caps on. You may have to trim the bolt with a hacksaw.Once the bolts are secure, mount the tank.Make sure the gasket between the tank and toilet is in place. Then position the tank on the bowl. Run bolts through the tank and secure. Don't over tighten (the tank can crack).Hook up the water supply line.Connect the supply to the line on the bottom of the tank.Turn on the water.Let the tank fill.Flush once or twice to make sure the water control is properly adjusted.Put the tank lid on.Enjoy.
ford performance chip.

This was probably a manufacture defect right from the begining which would explain what happened. My guess there was a very small crack and quickly developed into serious problem.

Hello, W/D here.

Most probably, the tank-to-bowl gasket has not seated properly. They are usually neoprene, and tend to bight on the bowl socket rather than to slide into the socket where it can be compressed properly. Remove the tank bolts and look at the gasket. Re-install, using a water based lubricant on the bowl side, with the gasket installed on the tank flange. Wiggle the tank and gasket back and forth a few times, and the gasket will start properly into the cast socket on the bowl. Install the bolts and tighten to finger tight. Wiggle the tank a bit more, and level the top. Tighten the bolts uniformly.
You mention that the flush valve was hand tightened only. If this gasket is not snug (a bit more than hand tight), a leak can occur there as well.
Best regards, --W/D--

The reason the tank doesn't sit down on the bowl is cause it's not supposed to just sit flush from the start. Your suppose to tighten the tank bolts down in order to get a water tight seal. There is also these little rubber " U " shaped things that sit on the porcelain lip on the back of the bowl thats what's there to protect it from cracking when you tighten the bolts down. Just place 1 on the right side and the the other on on the left side. and tighten down 'til the tank touches the bowl.

Hi,

It's usually pretty simple. Start by turning power off to the oven - unplug it or disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Open oven door, remove all racks, then remove oven floor panel (it might be secured with two bolts or clips on the back side). Remove the flame spreader (one nut). Now you have the oven burner and igniter exposed. If the new plug differs from the old, cut off the plug and use ceramic wire nuts (should be supplied with igniter) to connect the wires. Don't shake the igniter - the coil is very fragile. Once the igniter is replaced make sure the wires are connected securely. Put everything back the way it was and test the oven.

Below are the two most popular oven igniters: flat bar igniter and round igniter.

Flat igniter - this is by far the most commonly used oven igniter. Includes all necessary pieces to replace longer ceramics. Size: 3-3/4" long. Fits Maytag, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Tappan, Jenn Air, GE (flat bar only), Sears Kenmore (flat bar only), even some Thermador cooktops and Viking ovens. -

Replace the rubber bushings and retorque the brass bolts but do not over tighten them or you may crack the ceramic tank, also check floor mounting for loose mounting bolts, if floor is uneven you may need to use shims to take up space at the mounting base , and again do not over tighten or you can also break the mounting base...

The Fuel Pump is Located In the Fuel TANK and is ONLY Accessable With TANK REMOVED

On one end of each strap there should be a bolt. It's possible that there was an "insulator" between the strap and tank that deteriorated and fell out. It's not essential that it be replaced but likely you can tighten those bolts to take up some of the slack. Don't crank down too tight or you may distort tank.

check the seal between the tank and the toilet.tighten it as necessary. (not to tight! you will crack the ceramic). Mkae sure the tank is square to the toilet.
also the water inlet connector.