Question about Electrolux EL7020A Oxygen 3 Ultra Canister Vacuum Cleaner Bagged Vacuum

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Electrolux EL7020A Oxygen 3 dead!

If there is a reset switch on the main body, I don't seem to be able to find it. I hear there is a circuit board that casuse a no power problem. I think I can fix it if I can disassemble it and get to the controller board. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Bill

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There is a board in the back (called the "SUMO board") which has a fuse hardwired to it. Most of the "no go" problems with this machine are related to this.

In order to check it, you'll want to take a thin flat-head screwdriver, and gently pry up the silver panel on the top of the machine. The easiest place to do this is on the side of the panel, as far toward the rear of the machine as possible.

You will then need to remove the 2 Torx screws on the rear panel, and the top body of the machine should then be able to be removed. There are two clips in the bag chamber, directly under the back portion of the bag compartment lid, which can be pressed in to facilitate removal of the back cover.

The sumo board will be sitting directly on the top of the machine, and the fuse in question will be on the right if you are looking at it from the rear of the machine. Unfortunately, if the fuse is blown, you will have to replace the entire circuit board. (Unless you feel very comfortable with soldering a new fuse onto it, which I do not recommend for safety reasons.)

You can also check continuity of the cord reel from here. On the right hand side of the board are two spade terminals leading to wires running down into the cord reel assembly. One black, one white. Checking the continuity between these terminals and the ends of the power supply cord will allow you to determine if the cord reel is providing power to the machine.

Accessing the cord reel will require you to remove the six Torx screws holding the main body to the base. Two of these are on the rear of the machine, and are very deep inside; so you will require a very long-shanked Torx driver to get at these. Two more are inside the bag chamber at the rear, and the other two are on the front handle assembly. This will allow you to lift the main body away from the base, and if you are replacing the cord reel you can pull the wires from the spade terminals and the socket on the sumo board, and feed them back down into the cord reel chamber to remove the old cord reel.

Reassembly is simply a reverse of the previous. Beware, however: getting the cord reel to align is something of a chore, so make sure that you have the retraction system functioning before you put the whole thing back together, or you'll be bummed when you finish reassembly and the cord won't retract.
(I've definitely never done that. Nope. Never.)

Hope that helps, good luck.

-R

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

  • cpwalker403 Sep 05, 2011

    Thank-you very helpful--I saved $$$ by following your instructions. I replaced the fuse for just a couple of bucks. I also "splurged" and bought a fuse holder and installed it ($3.00). Now there will be no soldering necessary if the fuse ever needs to be replaced again. I'm sure the repair bill would have been a new SUMO board ($90.00) plus labor. I just love the internet and folks like you who are willing to share their expertise!

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The fuse on my ELECTROLUX Oxygen3's sumo board did have clear markings: F5AL250V - this is a 5A/250V 20mm fuse made by BEL FUSE, however, any other such fuse should work. The fuse on my board was blown (luckily, what caused it seems to be a glitch as replacing the fuse was all that I had to do). I got 5A/250V 20mm fuse from RadioShack and, expecting that this could happen again, I also installed a simple (5A/250V-rated) automotive fuse holder (also from RadioShack) (the only fuse holder that was available at a local store) and it works wonderfully now. Should the fuse blow on me again, I should be able to replace it in less than 3 minutes.

Posted on Nov 09, 2009

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  • brownieking Sep 09, 2011

    Ditto for me. Radio Shack $3 fuse and $4 fuse holder did the trick. The soldering was easy. Just clip off the old fuse as close to the fuse body as possible, leaving the fuse leads still soldered to the board. Then solder the fuse holder wires to those leads. Piece of cake.

  • jrairan
    jrairan Jan 11, 2012

    my fuse looks intact... can it still be bad by sending a signall to the switch to turn off ?

  • shamusj
    shamusj May 25, 2015

    Life saver! I removed the entire fuse and leads and replaced it with a chassis mount fuse holder from Frys electronics. Took a few tries to get it right yet looks and works perfectly. Would have been more simple to replace the board yet very satisfying to DIY and have it up and running again.

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