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If the fan on the backside is not spinning it could be a bad fan-motor. When the fan runs the compressor should run as well. If the compressor is not running the fan should not be running either, so you should unplug it for about an hour, then plug it back in and see if the compressor unit starts up. If it doesn't, it is probably something wrong in the control circuit for the compressor. It could be the thermostat (check that it is set correctly). If the compressor starts up but the fan does not run, it is most likely a bad fan motor or bad wire leading to the fan motor.
this appears to be a stuck relay or contactor . follow the wire back from the fan and locate the contactor or relay slp it and see it it comes lose. ?? this does not mean it will solve the problem as you will still have to repalce any part that is causing it.. Hope this helps let me know Jon
Hi, the tech should have been able to figure the stat out with out a manual to see why the condenser is shutting off at 1:00 P.M. This is unusual for this to happen, unless it was winter and this is a heat-pump going into defrost, but just the fan would shut down. Does this unit have a box on it that was installed by your electric company that shuts the unit off during high peak conditions in the summer? This would cause it to shut down at the same time everyday. If not, it would have to be something in the thermostat that is set for it to shut off at that time. It still does not make since, as it would shut both the indoor and outdoor unit off, not just the condenser. Are you saying that just the condenser fan motor is shutting off, but the compressor continues to run until it shuts off on high head pressure when the fan stops, or does the complete outdoor unit shut down fan, compressor and all at that time??. It sounds to me like this outdoor unit has a time delay relay that has a fault in it may be shutting it off at this time daily? Please let me know if its just the condenser fan motor that shuts off, or if the complete unit is shutting off all together, this will help . Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating,
I'm leaning toward sticky relay as well, but if you want to confirm it's not thermostat, remove thermostat from wall, and temporarily disconnect the yellow wire from thermostat (compressor) when/if, it happens again. If compressor stays running, I'd say relay for sure. Just for future reference , Gray wire from thermostat is low fan, green wire is high fan, yellow is compressor, blue is ground. ( For cooling side) The red is 12 v + to furnace and white is negative to furnace.(heat side)
Replace the motherboard (part # WR55X10942) but be careful to check that the evaporator fan (inside the freezer) turns on when you power up the refrig again. A bad evaporator fan motor can take out the motherboard. If compressor starts with new board but not evap fan, unplug immeadiatelly and replace the evap fan motor to save new board.
The first thing to check is your breaker box. There should be one double breaker for the air handler unit, that's the inside unit, and one double breaker for the compressor, that's the outside unit. Check both breakers. If you're not sure if they've be thrown, click them toward the outside of the breaker box (off position) and then click them toward the inside of the breaker box (on position). If the breakers are on and you still are not getting any A/C take a look at your compressor, (outside unit). If the fan is running at least you're getting power. However, your compressor down inside the unit may not be getting power or it may need to be replaced. The compressor has a start-up cap. If this cap goes bad or the wires from this cap fry or corrode away, this will also keep the compressor from starting but the fan will still run. If the fan is not running it could be caused by a faulty relay inside the compressor cabinet. This relay is supposed to open and close based on a low voltage signal from the thermostat. I believe it's roughly 24 volts. This relay switches on and off the 240 volts for the compressor and the compressor fan. Often this relay goes bad or the wires leading up to it fry. If you?re going to work on the unit yourself make sure all power is shut off. There should be a shutoff switch on the outside wall near the compressor. I?d also shut the breakers off.
I am assuming that you are talking about a central ac unit. On a central air unit the outside fan must be running whenever the compressor is. If it's not the compressor will shut off from overheating withing minutes. First you need to shut off the unit for several hours and let it cool completely down. Then turn it on briefly to see if the compressor starts and see if the fan tries to start.( I am assuming the compressor starts and runs.) If the fan won't start try testing the capacitors. There are usually two one for the fan one for the compressor. Sometimes there will be one combo one. Mark the wires and remove the capacitor. Get it tested and if bad replace it. This will probably do the job. If not test for current at the fan motor. Also test to see if it turns freely. The motor may need to be replaced. This will run about $50. The capacitor should always be replaced when the motor is changed anyway.
COMPRESSORS HAVE AN INTERNAL T-STAT TO PROTECT THE WINDINGS ... SOME THING IS CAUSING YOUR COMPRESSOR TO RUN "HOT" THIS WILL KICK "IN & OUT" THE COMPRESSOR DURING COLLING OPERATION AND HEAT MODE (IF IT IS A HEAT-PUMP).
1ST THING TO EASILY CHECK IS THE CONDENSOR "OUT-SIDE" COIL. (CLEN BOTH WHILE YOU ARE AT IT).
THESE FANS PULL THE AIR IN AND A BLOW OUT THE COIL .... ALL THE DIRT WILL BE ON THE INSIDE.
2ND THING IS THE FAN ITSEL OVER HEATING AN TURNING "OFF" ON ITS OWN "BUILT-IN POTECTION T-STAT". THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE IRRATIC OPERATION YOU ARE DESCRIBEING.
I TEND TO THINK IT IS YOUR FAN MOTOR ... EASY TEST. TURN "OFF" EVERYTHING BUT THE FAN. SET IT FOR MANUAL "RUN ALL THE TIME" POSITION. THE FAN SHOULD NOT KICK OFF !!! IF IT DOES YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM.
IF IT DOES TURN OFF IT CAN BE A WEAK CAPACITOR.
UNITS VARY ON WETHER THE CAPACITOR IS FOR COMPRESSOR/FAN OR HAS A SEPERATE CAPACITOR FOR EACH. CAPACITORS ARE NOT EXPENSIVE.
HOPE THAT CAN NARROW YOUR PROBLEM DOWN