Question about Roper Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like you have a broken coupler. (a hybrid plastic/ rubber gear that acts as part gear, part shock absorber). To verify this, first unplug your washer. Pull it forward slightly and tilt it back about 6". Use a flash light to show you the underneath side. You will likely see black shavings, peices of white plastic, or possibly even a mangled chunk of black rubber. This is what is left of your coupler. If ou are able to verify this, grab your model number( the one supplied [ras6223kq] does not come up aa a vailid number). Just lift the lid and look towards the rear where the lid and top of the unit meet. In the center where they meet you should see a plaque with your model number in it. Once you have your replacement coupler, here's how you replace it. 1st - Unplug the unit. Next, open your console. The most common ways to do this are either 2 phillips screws on the back of the console where it meets the top of the washer on the right and left hand sides or there are 2 cosmetic caps on the front of the console. Once you remove the caps, you will find 2 phillips screws to remove. Once the screws are out, pull the bottom of the console towards the front and swing it up. (it should be hinged). Underneath, you fill find 2 large brass colored clips. Find the area where the clips go into the top of of the unit. Use a large screwdriver to simultaniously push down and push the handle towards the back of the unit. This will let the clips out. Now, open the lid and grab the opening for the clothes and pull it towards you while placing your foot at the bottom center to keep it in place. Once you reach about 45 degrees forward, let both the bottom and the top come forward slowly at the same time. Now with the cabinet out of the way, look towards the bottom center of the machine. You should see a white piece of plastic with two black hoses connected. That is your pump. Pry off the two clips holding it on. Underneath is your motor. On the right hand side there is a wire harness. Follow the 2 red wires. This is your capaicitor. If you touch the metal parts is can kill you. So, pull the wires off, then touch a large screwdriver across the two metal plugs where the wires just were. It is now safe. Unplug the rest of the wires where they connect to the motor. There are 2 more clips keeping the motor in place. First remove the screws (they will be either 5/16 or 1/4" screws). Then again pry the clips off. There is a shaft on the back of the motor and a matching shaft behind it on the transmission. Remove any remaining coupler pieces. (you may have to pry or break off the remianing pieces) Take the new parts and press them on the shafts (I find using a spark plug socket and a hammer to press it on works best). Now re-assemble in reverse. If you didn't have the shavings or run in to any other problems, drop me a note back.
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
If you are talking about the upper portion of the agitator (called the "auger") not spinning, you probably need to replace the agitator dogs. The following link epxlains how:
This is a very simple and inexpenisve repair. The part number is included in the information I provided.
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
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