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I have a GE TFH24JRS that isn't cooling properly. The compressor is running and the amp draw is 1.1amps (seems low to me, decal shows LRC is 14.7amps). The return line is 103F and the supply line is 60F. The coils are clean.

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How burned compressor looks when you cut it open.

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It may sound like its running,but it actually isn't running correctly as your ptc overload relay on the compressor has burned out and needs replacing,this component protects the compressor and also helps in initial startup of the compressor,they easily unplug off the compressor and most appliance parts stores will have an exact replacement,when its unplugged shake this part and if it rattles or sounds loose inside this is the burned out ptc and this is a good sign its bad

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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1 Answer

Coleman compressor runs no cool


Sounds like a blockage, which isn't permanent and let the unit cool the other day. Reclaim the gas, cut the capillary at the drier end and blow nitrogen through. Rebraze the capillary, vacuum and put new gas in.

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For the past two days I have had to reset the main circuit breaker for the outside unit. It appears to be running fine now. I'm just wondering is this an indication of the compressor about to go bad,...


Bill, first thing, make sure the outdoor coil isn't stopped up with dirt. This will cause the compressor to overheat and possibly trip the breaker. If you you can check the amp draw that would be good. Look on the data tag on the outside unit and look for RLA or "running load amps". Running amp draw should never exceed this number, it should actually normally run 10% under RLA. If its real hot where you are like it is here (109) it will be running close to RLA.
If you coil is stopped up with dirt, etc., turn off the breakers, use you water hose and sprayer and carefully wash out the coil.
If all this fails, and your amp draw is good, change your breakers. Hope this helps , stay cool.. Mark

Jul 10, 2011 | GE Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

What is the electrical draw in amps or watts. I need to see if I could use it on my boat which has a inverter off of the 12 vold battery.


. You'll need to know a little more than the average amperes draw of the unit in order to use it with your inverter . Here's why : the compressor in the refrigerator is rated with two amperage ratings . One is the running amps which is usually around five to eight amps . And you must add your condenser fan and circulation fan amperage to the compressor amperge for a accurate total current consumption . However , the other compressor motor rating is what is called LRC, which stands for locked rotor current and is much higher than the running current . Usually three to five times higher than the running current . This current only lasts for a few seconds while the compressor motor is actually starting up from a dead stop . If your inverter's surge rating is not at least 20% higher than your refrigerator compressor locked current rating , you will have problems with either or both units . The amp rating for the refrigerator should be located on the main ID plate . If the plate only shows continuous amperage or wattage, multiply by 4x to obtain a estimated LCR. I hope this helps.

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Air compressor starts fine,but trips the thermal reset ,motor seems hot. It does it in every receptacal I've tried.


With no air in the tank and amp meter connected to one leg of line, start compressor and note amp draw thru cycle. It should draw low amps at first then reach rated amp draw close to end of cycle(most likely 12-15 amps). If amp draw is normal then replace thermal breaker. Older compressors have thermal breaker incorporated within winding and may not be easily replaced (but not impossible). If amp draw is higher than rated, check capacitor for proper rating and make sure that the in-tank check valve is not leaking pressure back to pump. Good holidays

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1 Answer

System not cooling properly. Two speed compressor


According to the reading sound like compressor is working fine .There are other issue that contribute to no cooling and the main one is dirty filters so check your filter to see if it's dirty and clean or replaced it .
If filter is fine then you might have dirty evaporator or condenser coil so clean those out too .
Does this unit have 2 compressor and if it does is the 2 compressor running

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You need to borrow a clamp on style amp gauge, and check amp draw on black wire in box where hydro wires connect. (PLEASE, be careful, and if not experienced in this type of test, don't try it, due to likelihood of getting a shock. ) If it's the compressor kicking in that's causing the breaker to trip, and capacitor is good, then it's usually a problem with either low incoming (supply) 110-120 AC voltage, which will cause high amperage draw, or compressor on it's way out causing high amp draw. If it's only drawing 15-18 amps, and your tripping a 20 amp breaker, then breaker is getting weak.

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1 Answer

During low voltage period window AC compressor shudders and kicks off, but fan runs, when voltage returns normal compressor runs.


low voltage issues causes higher amp draw and equipment to run a lot harder. whats causing the low voltage problem to the equipment? high amp draw of the compressor could be causing it to overheat and trip until the compressor physically cools down.

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Kenmore side by side not cooling: The compressor seems to be running (it's hot), the compressor cooling fan is running, the freezer circulation fan is running, but not the least bit cool anywhere.


If everything is working, that you can see and hear, then I think you are low on coolant. A set of gauges will show you for sure or if you take the back panel off in the freezer and look at the cooling coils, they should have a light coat of frost all over. If it is low on coolant then they might have some frost on a few coils or none at all.

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