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The welder is piling the wire on top of the metal without completely melting it.

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Confirm that all connections- mains, machine ground, work ground, whip connections including the tip- are clean and tight.

Is the wire speed control working as it should, ie are you getting what seems to be a nice,wide range of wire speed?

If not, the control is suspect. Open the cabinet and hose it lightly with electric motor cleaner, work it back and forth a little. Dry it out and try it.

If the wire speed is varying nicely then you may have a failed diode or burned transformer.

Check back, let us know what you've done so far and if you've had success.


Posted on Jan 01, 2011


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My welder won't feed wire it sounds like it's trying to energize but can't. A couple of times it fed through but wouldn't feed to weld so I had stick weld. What happens if the liner has a restriction?

first unscrew the tiny tip at very end of torch (can be hot)!! then try to feed wire thru handle,gently shake cable as you do helps to feed wire thru cable , if successful you have allowed the amps to get too high for the feed rate (slow) and melted the tip closed , these tips are replaceable from miller and are not expensive

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ARC 100, 115v, 60HZ, 20A. When I run a beed, the

With these smaller machines you have a common problem. The way to get the weld to hold is on thicker material you have to sometimes pre-heat the metal in order to get it to stick. Also if ther is no flux nor gas the material has to be clean, free of dirt, oil, and rust. These machines are for very light use only. For welding material over 8 th inch, I suggest investing in a welder with at least 100 amps

Jul 25, 2011 | Lincoln Welding Tools

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Finding it hard to get the metal to pool

Simply turn up the amperage on the welder. The thicker the material, more amps are need to heat the parent metal.

However each metal is different and other factors come involved. For example, Aliumium melts at a temperature of 660 'C but has an oxide layer on the surface which melts at roughly 2100 'C. Therefore you need a T.I.G. welder with a polarity of AC HF (high frequency), to increase the hertz to deal with this high melting temperature oxide layer.

There are other factors such as sharpening the tungsten to a point if welding stainless steel/carbon steel. By doing this the arc is applyed in one direct spot rather then disposing so you can heat the metal into a pool quicker.

Make sure you have your polarity right:

DC Negative = more heat into workpiece, deeper penetration. Standard setting for steel

DC Positive = more heat into electrode, less penetration, best left for thin metal.

AC, best for non-ferrous metals, like aluminum, because the back and forth flow provides cleaning action.

Apr 16, 2011 | Welding Tools

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Same problem here...using proper gas, more heat (setting 4) should penetrate better, no? have lots of flow from blueshield 8 bottle. What gives?

Your machine is rated for less than 1/8" thick metal welding. The only way you can have a depper penetration is by using innershield wire instead of metal core one. Innershield wire does not require gas and it will melt at lower heat.

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My little 110 mig welder is arcing without trigger pulled

i believe that the trigger only send out the wire and does not control the arc the tip should be live as long as the welder is on

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How do i weld thin metal with out burnning holes

First make sure your work area is out of the wind
Get some of the same thin metal to practice with.
Use the thinnest wire you can get. Start on the lowest
Volt setting and wire speed start welding and increase
Your wire speed till it sounds frying bacon and use
Stitch welds about ½ long wait a few seconds then lay down
The next weld start at where you left off that way the metal
Has time to cool some dial it in and practice.

Mar 03, 2009 | Campbell Hausfeld RBWG202000 NA 70 Amp....

1 Answer

Trying to weld with Hobart 125 EZ

If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.

The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.

If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.

To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.

I hope this helps.


Feb 03, 2009 | Hobart Handler 125 Ez

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