Question about U-Line 75WC Wine Cooler

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How do you get to the back of the evaportor to attach the coil from the new thermastat.. There is permnently mounted foam insulation.. Can you remove the insulation. Or, Can you somehow take the new thermastat a part to attach the new thermastat to the old coil.

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  • JJNOSICH Jan 01, 2011

    no tube. The thermastat is in front at bottom. The coil goes underneath and then up the back on outside of insulation. But then it goes into the insulation through a hole in the insulation that is now filled with a putty. After removing the putty, you can see the coil go in behind the insulation where it is probably attached to teh evaporator.

  • JJNOSICH Jan 02, 2011

    very helpful. it was staring me in the face and I could not figure it out. The expert put in the right track.

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  • Master
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The new one goes in the same as the old one comes out. You have 2 screws on the bottom of the evaporator that holds the sensor in place. Then the sensor runs thru the bottom toward the back.As you remove the old one jus put the new one in the same way.
This is actually the easy part....;-) On mine... I had to remove all of the shelves (5) which slid out just like my kitchen cabinet drawers. Next I removed 4 screws that held on the cooling coil assembly (Big white smooth flat piece with raised ridges running through it.). Once the screws were removed, I carefully lifted the cooling coil assembly/panel until I could see the old whip and pig tail. (Sorry I am going on memory here...) I believe that there was another screw that held the end in place that I had to remove and then reattach to the new whip once inserted through the back and snaked into place. Really I remember this taking only about 10 minutes to do start to finish. I reused all of the "filler" stuff to reseal the new whip in place.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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  • Master
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Haven't seen yours but most models have a tube you slide the probe up into. Did yo not see that when you removed the old control?

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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1 Answer

Frost forms on the coolant line from compressor to evap coil. At small foam insulation piece it has a chance to melt then drips on floor


Not good... no way.

That is an old time symptom of an inadequate refrigerant charge. The foam insulation rapidly loses any effectiveness when saturated.

Fact is... refrigerant lines leaving the compressor ought to be too warm to be attracting condensation...

Frost is highly problematic (as is water dripping anywhere inside the house).

Hope that helps!

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I want to push out a dent in the rear plastic bumper but I have to take it off first.


Probably so. I have seen people use a round ended bar to push through the foam backing and force the dent back out. I have also seen someone use Insulating foam (used to seal around door & windows of houses) to spray into the dent. When the foam cures it expands thus pushing the dent out and providing new foam to help it stay there.

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How to replace the rear shocks on a 1998 nissan maxima


REMOVE REAR SEAT AND PACKAGE SHELF TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE UPPER SHOCK ATTACHING NUTS.REMOVE UPPER ATTACHING NUTS. RAISE VECHICLE REMOVE REAR WHEEL AND SUPPORT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM WITH A JACK REMOVE LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING BOLT. REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY FROM THE VECHICLE. COMPRESS THE COIL SPRING WITH THE PROPER SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL. REMOVE CENTER RETAINING NUT HOLDING THE UPPER MOUNTING INSULATOR. SLOWLY DECOMPRESS THE COIL SPRING.REMOVE THE MOUNTING INSULATOR AND THE COIL SPRING. REMOVE THE COIL SPRING. TO INSTALL COMPRESSED COIL SPRING ONTO THE STRUT ASSEMBLY. BE SURE TO THE END OF THE SPRING IS IN THE NOTCH ON THE LOWER SEAT.INSTALL UPPER MOUNTING INSULATOR. YOU WILL NEW LOCKNUT FOR THE CENTER RETAINING NUT OF THE COIL SPRING. CENTER RETAINING NUT AND TORQUE THE NUT TO 13 TO 17 FT LBS. SLOWLY REMOVE THE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL. INSTALL SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY IN THE VECHICLE AND INSTALL THE MOUNTING FASTERNERS AND TORQUE LOWER MOUNTING BOLTS TO 72 - 87 FT LBS. INSTALL WHEEL.LOWER VECHICLE. WARNING COIL SPRING UNDER EXTREME LOADS WHEN COMPRESSED.BESURE TO PROPERLY ALIGN THE SPRING WITH THE COMPRESSING TOOL TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY FROM THE SPRING RELEASING UNEXPECTEDLY.

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1 Answer

Homelite uto8087 carb loose from motor. Seems difficult to tighten up


Hi, please not that there is an insulator between the carb and motor that my have its own attachments. You will may find this out if you undo the bolts of the carb. There is also the possibility that the tread for the mounting bolts are stripped. If this is the case the bolts will need replacing. If the engine head mount for the carb is stripped you need to install a heli-coil. To do this, you must first drill out the old thread with the size bit of the new coil (carefull not to drill too far). Then, thread the new hole with the appropriate tap size and finally, drive the coil into the freshly tapped hole with some locking adhesive. This will allow you to thread the carb to the head securely again. Good luck.

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1 Answer

I was cutting 2" dense foam insulation board,


The problem you have is a faulty field coil, the Bosch saws unfortunatly have a bit of an issue with this. The coil can be replaced separatly so you won't have to replace the whole motor. Bosch has a 1 yr warranty on thier table saw so this is a warranty replacment provided the saw was purchased within the year. If not the coil replacment is still cheaper than buying a whole new saw, but should really be done by a service center because of the level of difficulty of the repair.

Nov 10, 2010 | Bosch 4100 10" Worksite Table Saw

1 Answer

The evaportor coil in my side by side fridge keeps freezing up. I use the hair dryer to melt the frost off it. This happens about every 48 hours.


Your defrost circuit has failed. Typical problem is the heating element fails. It is mounted to your coil. Use a meter to check if the heating element is open, if they are, replacing the heating element should solve your problem.

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1 Answer

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older fridges used fiber glass insulation(didn't carry sound)...new fridges use hard foam(much better insulation but carries sound a lot more)when you push handles you dampen the sound... not to worry it's normal just keep all coils clean












Aug 13, 2009 | Kenmore 73503 Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

Removed old strut last night Today can't get new


Installation
  1. sww~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation.
    NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.

    NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.

    Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.


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Item Part Number Description 1 — Dust Boot (Part of 18045) 2 N803826-S100 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut
(3 Req'd) 3 N803952-S100 Washer 4 N808625-S100 Front Shock Absorber Nut 5 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 6 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal 7 5310 Front Coil Spring 8 5414 Front Spring Insulator 9 18045 Front Shock Absorber A — Tighten to 35-40 Nm
(25-30 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 55-63 Nm
(40-46 Lb-Ft)
  1. sww~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
    Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).




  1. Remove the spring compressing tool.
  1. Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).




  1. Partially raise the hoist.
  1. Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
  1. Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).




  1. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Lower the vehicle.

May 01, 2009 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

REPAIR or REPLACE?


OMG ROFL!!!

Well... here's an idea.

Drill a 1/2 inch hole where you punctured the wall of the freezer, make sure you don't hit the coils. Then goto lowes/home depot and get that expansion foam that is used to insulate windows and holes in houses. Grab a razor blade and scalp off the excess after it's dried. Now cover the foam on the inside of the freezer with 2 part epoxy or "shoe goo" or e6000 (these are the toughest glues I have ever used) which is available at a hobby shop. Make sure you do a test with the foam and the glue on cardboard first to make sure the glue won't eat at the foam.

Are you sure you punctured the coil? If you did you can goto an auto part place and ask for a compression fitting (most commonly used to repair brake lines on cars) for what ever tube size the coil is, use a fine ruler is the best. Then you can repair the coil by using a pipe cutter to cut the coil and put it back together with the compression fitting. Now call the appliance service guys and have them come out and recharge the system.

Fixed, total cost... about $50 bucks

Other solution, replace entire fridge, total cost $$$$$

Sep 04, 2008 | Thetford Norcold® Model DE0061

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