Question about GE JVM3670 Microwave Oven
Posted by Anonymous on
Most likely you have a blown high voltage diode.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.
There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat
A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.
Testing a diode
NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.
Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.
A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.
With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.
A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.
Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.
High Voltage Capacitor
A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.
A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.
Testing a magnetron
NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.
There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:
TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.
TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.
Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.
I hope the above is helpful.
Posted on Nov 12, 2011
This is not likely a door switch problem. That pop was probably a part blowing, most likely the high voltage rectifier diode. If you or a friend want to check into and repair this, here is a good link for safety info & do-it-yourself info: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html Find & buy GE repair parts here: http://www.geappliances.com/shop/prts/ If that isn't it, please repost with new details. Good luck and be safe. Your rating of this answer is appreciated.
Posted on Nov 18, 2006
Microwave ovens that do not heat, and failed as you have described, have 1 or more of the following failed components, in order of cost -
4 and 5 are interchangeable when it comes to cost.
Try replacing 1 and 2, then 3, then it's decision time of whether to buy parts or replace the microwave.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
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