Question about Friedrich M18CF Split System Air Conditioner

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Help We have a Freidrich - floating air, air condition and its not working. We pulled the cover off, and then put it back on and all of a sudden the unit stopped working. The operating and timer light is flashing, so its on. I don't know what to do, can anyone please help me.

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  • catherine th Aug 23, 2008

    my timer button is on and it didn't work right because it didn't produce cool air


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Do the lights flashes alternatively or simultaneously? If they flash simultaneously (at the same time) the unit is in test mode. If the flash alternatively, then there is a fault with the unit. Obviously when you pulled off the cover you must have touched or moved something.
I would get the unit repaired by a professional
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Posted on Aug 29, 2009

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The water light comes on and stops the machine from working even if water is full

There's a float (with a small magnet) in the watertank. This float should go up when the tank is filled with water.
So the float can be stuck in the bottom position, or the sensor doesn't work.
You can test the sensor.
  • Take the left cover off: two screws on the back, slide the cover backwards, then lift the bottom up and pull the toppart out downwards.
  • On the main board there's a plug right at the top, that's the cable from the watertank-sensor. With the watertank removed it shouldn't conduct.
  • Now fill the watertank, check whether the float is going up, put the tank back in the machine.
  • The sensor switch should be conducting now. It it is, then the problem is in the control board.
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There is a power distrobution box under the hood containing relays and a few heavy duty fuses.
I'd take the cover off and find the A/C relay usually depicted in the diagram inside the cover.
Start the car, turn the A/C switch on and then under hood at A/C relay give it a light tap with the handle of a screwdriver to see if compressor clutch on compressor "kicks on".
Relay can even be pulled out and put back in to make a better connection.
I'm betting the problem is that relay...or dirty contacts.

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How do i get it out to put new one in

find the offending carb or carbs by pulling float bowl over flow hoses to the side and starting motor, 1 or move hose will be pouring fuel, follow hose to offending carb, unmount all 4 carbs from motor,(unmount tank,1 bolt 2 hoses,2 wires) then (unscew hose clamps from front and back of carbs) next(reomove scew from very top font of air box,near metal cross bar behind fuel tank) then wiggle carbs to separate from rubber intakes,unhook trhottle cables pull carbs out one side(either side of bike) once off turn upside down,take 4 bowl screws out ,remove cover,take out small pin holding floats ,needle will come with it,use the right wrench and uscrew brass seat needle came out of(make sure any rubber o ring come with) reinstall seat &any orings take old needle off float install new one,put needle in hole of seat,pin float put cover back on bottom of carb,re assemble bike.I hope you've maked where everything goes,a little oilon rubber helps with reassembly .


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My 2005 883 low's petcock rubber went bad and i think a piece went into the carb. The carb now sticks and I have replaced the petcock and cleaned the carb but it is still sticking and leaking gas every...

If the carb is leaking gas, that's about all it could be. Remove your air filter cover, the air filter element, and the backing plate from the engine and carb. Once you have this out of the way, you can gain access to the four screws that hold the float bowl on. Remove these four bolts and allow the float bowl to drop off the bottom of the carb, you may have to tap the bowl a bit to get it turn loose. Gently tap it with the handle of a screwdriver. With the float bowl off, you can now push out the small pivot pin that holds the float on. The float and the needle will drop away from the carb. Notice that the needle has a wire clip to hold the needle onto the tab on the float. When replacing the float, make sure your needle is positioned on the tab with this spring clip. Remove the fuel line from it's fitting on the carb and blow compressed air into the carb fitting to blow out any trash that might be in the "seat" of carb.

Inspect the end of the needle valve and put it back on the tang of the float. Reposition the float with the needle in the seat and put the pin back in. This can be aggerevating since the carb is upside down for this operation but it can be done. Once you get the pin back in. gently lift up on the float until it stops. Then slowly lower it until your finger comes away from the float. This is to check to see if it is sticking somewhere. As long as it has a full range of motion and moves feely your alright there.

Now, turn the float bowl upside down and remove the two screws that hold the acellerator pump cover on. Under the cover you'll find a spring, a diaphragm, and an O-ring. Pay attention to how these parts are positioned. Lift the diaphragm out and hold it up to the light. Gently stretch it and see if you see any holes. If not, the diaphragm is alright. Place the diaphragm back into position with the raised lip along the edge positioned into the groove around the pump cavity. Position the O-ring in it's location in the cover and stand the sping on top of the metal piece in the diaphragm. Put the cover on and replace the two screws.

Reposition the float bowl and replace the screws. Reconnect the fuel hose. Replace the air filter backing plate, air filter element, and cover. Check the throttle for proper operation. You don't want to start the engine only to find out that the throttle is stuck wide open. Once you're sure you've got everything right, start the engine.

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