I have a humidifier thats about 20 years old and is from when the house was new. It looks just like the LFP. I have 3 wires that are not connected. I know the white wire goes with white and black with black but there is a green wire but know other wire to connect to. Do you know were that would go.

a couple of things, is this new or old..
1. you should have hooked up to hot water side of water not cold
2. you should have summer/winter bypass installed
3. what is your outside humidly running.

Pleas rate this response with thumps up section thanks..

Left you want the humidity percent to go down.

If your humidifier is working properly, then the problem lies outside of the humidifier. For example how long does your furnance run when the thermostat calls for heat? If your furnace is oversized for your home, it will heat your home relatively quickly, and turn off, while your humidifier does not have a chance to work long enough for it to increase the humidity. If this is the case, you could try to set the thermostat to run the fan in manual mode instead of automatic. This will give the humidifier a chance to increase the humidity.

Hope this helps.

you need to make sure your humidity level in the house isnt higher then what your humidifier will provide at any givin outdoor temp. this chart is in the owners manual. you cant remove the wires going to the ODS or it will give an error unless you have a resistor to put in its place. Anyway if the humidifier works in test mode according to AA it works so you may have higher humidity than you think, the highest your gonna get is 45% as the temp outside drops it will allow less humidity so it doesnt cause window condinsation (property damage) here is a copy of the chart. the #s on the left are the dial setting
TABLE 2 – % Relative Humidity Guide
Outdoor Temperature (°F)
-10°F 0°F 10°F 20°F 30°F 40°F
1 10% 10% 10% 15% 20% 25%
2 10% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30%
3 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%
4 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40%
5 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45%
6 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 45%
7 30% 35% 40% 45% 45% 45%

Could be a couple of things. Transformer can be bad. Try connecting the two wires (usually wired red and white) from the transformer to terminal W and C on the circut board. Your bypassing the transformer and if installed a current sensing relay. The furnace transformer will/should handle the extra load. Turn on the furnace, if still not working, loosen the water supply line at the water solenoid on the humidifier, if water flows out then your supply valve isn't clogged, if no water then try screwing in the needle on the supply valve all the way in then back out. If still no water then the valve is clogged. If all is good then it looks like the water solenoid is bad or wiring to valve/humidifier control. Don't find the controls bad that often. Have fun!

try this forum...there are wiring diagrams posted there:
http://forum.doityourself.com/humidifiers-dehumidifiers-130/

I also had the transformer problem and it was made worse but an HVAC guy who rewired the furance fan to get more air flow when he installed a new AC unit. He left the humidifier wired to the old fan windings which were now putting out 160 induced volts. The humidifier transformer, which was already undersized by Honeywell, never had a chance. Not sure how common this problem is but I later saw several references to the same problem on other websites and it's worth a quick check of the supply voltage to your humidifier.

Since I had an expensive humidifier and a whole cut in the furnace duct, I looked for a fix. My solution was to buy a $15 transformer from a BigBox that matched the voltage and was oversize on amps and mounted it externally to the humdifier (much like a furnace transformer is typically mounted). I then completely removed the piece-of-junk humidifier circuit board and wired the transformer directly to the water solenoid which it controlled and wired the fan and new transformer directly to 120V that is controlled by a current sensing relay (Aprilaire A50) on the furnace fan wires (and also controlled by a humidistat located on return air plenum).

It has worked fine for two years now, runs only when the fan is on and when the humidistat is asking for more humidity. A relatively cheap fix that would have only taken an hour if I had done it right from the start.
For those of you who haven't bought the Honeywell 360A yet - don't. For those of you like me that spent the money and cut holes in your duct - this is one solution.

Maybe Honeywell will wise up and redesign their transformer PCB to be much more robust. The rest of the unit is a pretty good design.

I had the same problem and thought the solenoid valve was bad and was about to spend $80 for a new one. Until I took the short pipe (between the solenoid valve and humidifier) off and found that the orifice was plugged.  I used a sewing pin and cleared out the hole.  Problem solved.  I usually have to clean the orifice in the fall when I turn the heat on for the first time.

If you are keeping your humidifier set to 76, this is far too high. A humidifier setting of 40 to 50 percent is about right. Depending on your window insulation, you may have to reduce the setting in very cold weather if you start getting condensation on or around the windows.
Hope this helps.

Anthony Newman

I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES. INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT. IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE. I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT. YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT". NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.